Northern Shaanxi travel guide

Yan'an Airport has direct flights to Beijing, Xi’an and Yulin. Yulin Yuyang Airport has direct flights to Beijing, Xi’an, Guangzhou, Taiyuan, Shenzhen, Shanghai, Chengdu and Yinchuan.

Yulin Railway Station is located on Xingyu Road, west of National Highway 210 in Yulin City. Major stops along the line include Yulin, Shenmu, Lintong, Xi’an, Xianyang and Ankang. To reach the station, take bus 6, 7 or 10.

Yan'an Railway Station is located in the city centre at Qilipu (七里铺). Take bus 18, 603, K10 or K11 and get off at the Yan'an South Bus Station, which is next to the station. Trains from Yan'an run direct to Beijing, Shijiazhuang, Zhengzhou, Shanghai and Nanjing.

Yulin Long-Distance Bus Station is located on Renmin West Road in the city. Long-distance coaches run daily to Xi’an, Taiyuan, Luoyang, Dongsheng, Fugu, Shenmu and Yan'an Daliutan, among other destinations.

Yan'an Long-Distance Bus Station (East Bus Station) is located on Dongguan Street in the city and can be reached by bus 13, 18, 19, 20 and others. The South Bus Station is opposite Qilipu Railway Station.

Chuankou Bus Station in Tongchuan is located on Chuankou Road in Wangyi District. Coaches mainly run to Xi’an, Huangling, Yan'an, Xianyang and Weinan, as well as to the counties and districts under Tongchuan’s jurisdiction. To travel from Xi’an to Tongchuan, take a coach from Xi’an North Bus Station or from the bus station at Xi’an Railway Station Square.

The cities of Northern Shaanxi are small, and their attractions are not as concentrated as those around Xi’an, so renting a car is an efficient way to save time and see the sights quickly.

The distinctive local customs of Northern Shaanxi are summed up as the “Ten Oddities of Northern Shaanxi”: “Cook a big stew, pinch noodles fast, wrap a towel over the head, sheepskin coats worn with the fleece out, cave dwellings warm and durable, bare backs unafraid of the sun, sit cross-legged honestly, squat whether young or old, curse in an odd way, and don’t know how to court.”

Cook a big stew: all the dishes are cooked together in one pot, serving as both stir-fries and soups. Pinch noodles fast: rolled dough is cut into wide strips, then pinched off piece by piece into boiling water with dazzling speed. Wrap a towel over the head: a white towel is wound around the head, crossed at the front with both ends standing upright. Sheepskin coats worn with the fleece out: the coats are not covered in cloth; the leather is scraped flat and kept supple. Cave dwellings warm and durable: every household builds cave dwellings from stone or brick, or digs them into the foot of an old mountain, making them solid and cosy. Bare backs unafraid of the sun: people go shirtless in the hottest weather, tanning and peeling without complaint. Sit cross-legged honestly: sitting cross-legged on the kang (heated brick bed), locals are as calm, gentle and steady as a Buddha. Squat whether young or old: both adults and children like to squat, whether working or resting. Curse in an odd way: refers to coarse, dirty language used when swearing. Don’t know how to court: raised in the countryside without urban advantages, locals speak bluntly and honestly.

Yan'an has good accommodation, with large hotels and restaurants to choose from, and the facilities are quite good.

However, the most distinctive place to stay is a cave dwelling (yaodong). Yangjialing has a quasi-three-star stone cave hotel with a strong local character. Every evening, when the lights come on, the hotel's windows glow in rows like a sky full of stars, a truly spectacular sight, though it is not cheap. Private guesthouses in Yan'an are relatively inexpensive, but their hygiene and facilities should be checked before booking.