# Northern Shaanxi travel guide (陕北) Shaanxi Province · Northwest, China · 12 places Canonical: https://cnatrip.com/en/destinations/shaanxi/northern-shaanxi ## Quick itinerary - **Day 1:** Xi'an → Yaowang Mountain (Medicine King Mountain) → Yuhuagong Palace Ruins (overnight in Tongchuan or Huangling County) - **Day 2:** Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor → Hukou Waterfall → Yan'an - **Day 3:** Yan'an Revolutionary Sites Tour - **Day 4:** Yan'an → Bolang Valley → Hongshi Gorge ## The feel of the place - **Mizhi’s Women, Suide’s Men:** Northern Shaanxi is a region rich in outstanding people, and a local saying goes: “Mizhi’s women, Suide’s men.” Both places have produced many remarkable figures since ancient times. Mizhi’s women are known for being intelligent, virtuous and capable; Diaochan, one of the Four Great Beauties of China, was from Mizhi. Suide’s men are tall, bold and handsome; Han Shizhong, the famous Southern Song general who resisted the Jin, was from Suide. In modern times, both places have continued to produce talent: Mizhi gave us Gao Peilan and others, outstanding heroines who made major contributions to socialist construction, while Suide gave us Li Zizhou, one of the founders of the CCP’s Shaanxi organization. ## The feel of the place - tip: A trip to Northern Shaanxi mainly covers three areas: Tongchuan, Yan'an and Yulin. Tongchuan’s attractions focus on historical and cultural sites. If you have already visited Xi’an, Tongchuan’s sights are not must-sees, so you can decide whether to stop based on your time and interests. Yan'an is the highlight of a Northern Shaanxi trip. If time allows, visit the ancient cypress forest at the Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor to pay respects to Xuanyuan, the Yellow Emperor. Allow 2–3 days. The drive from Xi’an to Yan'an takes about 7 hours. Yulin’s attractions include Hongshixia Gorge, Zhenbeitai and Qixing Temple, but what truly draws visitors is the still-undeveloped folk culture of Northern Shaanxi, which is ideal for photography enthusiasts to explore on their own. - tip: When viewing Hukou Waterfall, don’t stand too close to the railings, as some are loose and pose a safety hazard. Visitors begin to be cleared from the site at 16:00, so arrive as early as you can. The riverbed at Hukou is either layered rock or waterlogged sand, so watch your footing: “Don’t walk while taking photos, and don’t take photos while walking.” The journey to Hukou is long, so bring some snacks to eat on the way. Accommodation near Hukou is both limited and expensive, so it is better to head back to Yichuan County town to stay the night. ### Preparation and Advice ### Climate and Best Time to Visit The average annual temperature along the Northern Shaanxi route is around 10°C. The region is arid to semi-arid, and during your travels you will encounter loess and dust storms, so take care to protect your camera. ## Getting there & around ### Arrival and Departure ### By Air Yan'an Airport has direct flights to Beijing, Xi’an and Yulin. Yulin Yuyang Airport has direct flights to Beijing, Xi’an, Guangzhou, Taiyuan, Shenzhen, Shanghai, Chengdu and Yinchuan. ### By Rail Yulin Railway Station is located on Xingyu Road, west of National Highway 210 in Yulin City. Major stops along the line include Yulin, Shenmu, Lintong, Xi’an, Xianyang and Ankang. To reach the station, take bus 6, 7 or 10. Yan'an Railway Station is located in the city centre at Qilipu (七里铺). Take bus 18, 603, K10 or K11 and get off at the Yan'an South Bus Station, which is next to the station. Trains from Yan'an run direct to Beijing, Shijiazhuang, Zhengzhou, Shanghai and Nanjing. ### By Road Yulin Long-Distance Bus Station is located on Renmin West Road in the city. Long-distance coaches run daily to Xi’an, Taiyuan, Luoyang, Dongsheng, Fugu, Shenmu and Yan'an Daliutan, among other destinations. Yan'an Long-Distance Bus Station (East Bus Station) is located on Dongguan Street in the city and can be reached by bus 13, 18, 19, 20 and others. The South Bus Station is opposite Qilipu Railway Station. Chuankou Bus Station in Tongchuan is located on Chuankou Road in Wangyi District. Coaches mainly run to Xi’an, Huangling, Yan'an, Xianyang and Weinan, as well as to the counties and districts under Tongchuan’s jurisdiction. To travel from Xi’an to Tongchuan, take a coach from Xi’an North Bus Station or from the bus station at Xi’an Railway Station Square. ### Getting Around The cities of Northern Shaanxi are small, and their attractions are not as concentrated as those around Xi’an, so renting a car is an efficient way to save time and see the sights quickly. ### Local Customs and Folk Traditions The distinctive local customs of Northern Shaanxi are summed up as the “Ten Oddities of Northern Shaanxi”: “Cook a big stew, pinch noodles fast, wrap a towel over the head, sheepskin coats worn with the fleece out, cave dwellings warm and durable, bare backs unafraid of the sun, sit cross-legged honestly, squat whether young or old, curse in an odd way, and don’t know how to court.” Cook a big stew: all the dishes are cooked together in one pot, serving as both stir-fries and soups. Pinch noodles fast: rolled dough is cut into wide strips, then pinched off piece by piece into boiling water with dazzling speed. Wrap a towel over the head: a white towel is wound around the head, crossed at the front with both ends standing upright. Sheepskin coats worn with the fleece out: the coats are not covered in cloth; the leather is scraped flat and kept supple. Cave dwellings warm and durable: every household builds cave dwellings from stone or brick, or digs them into the foot of an old mountain, making them solid and cosy. Bare backs unafraid of the sun: people go shirtless in the hottest weather, tanning and peeling without complaint. Sit cross-legged honestly: sitting cross-legged on the kang (heated brick bed), locals are as calm, gentle and steady as a Buddha. Squat whether young or old: both adults and children like to squat, whether working or resting. Curse in an odd way: refers to coarse, dirty language used when swearing. Don’t know how to court: raised in the countryside without urban advantages, locals speak bluntly and honestly. ## Shopping ### Recommended Shopping - **Ansai Paper-Cutting** — Northern Shaanxi paper-cutting carries the spirit of the Qin and Han dynasties. Its style is both delicate and graceful and bold and generous, showing skill within roughness and beauty within earthiness. It is truly art woven into everyday life. - **Red Dates** — Produced in the mountainous areas of northern Shaanxi. The large temperature difference between day and night gives them a high sugar content. The flesh is thick and the dates are large, sweet and delicious. ## Where to stay Yan'an has good accommodation, with large hotels and restaurants to choose from, and the facilities are quite good. However, the most distinctive place to stay is a cave dwelling (yaodong). Yangjialing has a quasi-three-star stone cave hotel with a strong local character. Every evening, when the lights come on, the hotel's windows glow in rows like a sky full of stars, a truly spectacular sight, though it is not cheap. Private guesthouses in Yan'an are relatively inexpensive, but their hygiene and facilities should be checked before booking. ## Things to see - **Yuhua Palace Scenic Area** (★★★): Admission ¥60 (June to February of the following year), ¥40 (March to May); Opening hours 9：00—17：00; Time needed 1 day — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/yuhua-palace-scenic-area - **Yaowang Mountain (Medicine King Mountain)** (★★★★): Admission ¥70 (March to December), ¥50 (December to March of the following year); Opening hours 8:30–17:30 (March to December), 9:00–17:00 (December to March of the following year); Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/yaowang-mountain-medicine-king-mountain - **Chenlu Ancient Town** (★★★): Admission Free; Time needed 1 hour — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/chenlu-ancient-town - **Hukou Waterfall Scenic Area on the Yellow River** (★★★★): Admission ¥100; sightseeing shuttle ¥40 (round trip); Opening hours 7：00—18：00; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/hukou-waterfall-scenic-area-on-the-yellow-river - **Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor Scenic Area** (★★★★): Admission Peak season ¥75; off-season ¥50; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/mausoleum-of-the-yellow-emperor-scenic-area - **Ganquan Grand Canyon** (★★★★): Admission ¥98; scenic shuttle bus ¥70 per person; Opening hours Summer 8:00–15:30; Winter 8:30–15:00; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/ganquan-grand-canyon - **Revolutionary Holy Land Tour (Yan'an)** (★★★): Admission Free; Free; Free; Free; Free; ¥60; Opening hours 8：00—18：00; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/revolutionary-holy-land-tour-yan-an - **Longzhou Danxia** (★★★★): Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/longzhou-danxia - **Hongshi Gorge Scenic Area** (★★★): Admission ¥30; Opening hours 7:30–20:00 (peak season) 8:00–17:00 (off-season); Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/hongshi-gorge-scenic-area - **Zhenbeitai Great Wall Scenic Area** (★★★): Admission ¥30; Opening hours 7:30–20:00 (peak season) 8:30–17:30 (off-season); Time needed 2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/zhenbeitai-great-wall-scenic-area - **Hongjiannao Lake Scenic Area** (★★★★): Admission ¥30; Time needed 4–5 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/hongjiannao-lake-scenic-area - **Yellow River Qiankun Bay Scenic Area** (★★★★): Admission Full ticket ¥80; Qiankun Bay single-site ticket ¥60; Qingshuiguan single-site ticket ¥30; Huifengzhai single-site ticket ¥20; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/yellow-river-qiankun-bay-scenic-area --- Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 669–681. Prices, hours and transport details are as printed in the August 2024 edition and may have changed. Always confirm with the venue before you travel.