Western Hunan (Xiangxi) travel guide

Xiangxi is mainly mountainous, and transport across the prefecture is not very convenient; few of its county towns have rail access. Jishou, as the capital of the Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, is the most accessible.

Fenghuang is now served by high-speed rail. Fenghuang Ancient Town Station has high-speed trains to and from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Changsha and other cities.

As the prefectural capital, Jishou is connected by road with all the county towns in the prefecture and serves as the main hub between Xiangxi's sights. However, mountain roads are winding and hard going; the Aizhai Road near Jishou is especially famous for its nine bends and eighteen turns.

Xiangxi cuisine is an important branch of Hunan cuisine. It excels at preparing wild mountain delicacies, smoked bacon and various cured meats. Its flavours emphasise salty, savoury, sour and spicy notes, and it is often cooked over charcoal. The curing methods are also distinctive, with most meats cured and then air-dried. Signature dishes include braised chestnuts with choy sum, Xiangxi sour meat and stir-fried blood duck.

Tujia hotpot has a distinctive character, evident in its tableware, seating and dishes, and it is well worth trying if you get the chance. Qianzhou duck hotpot and Longshan Maoping chili chicken hotpot are the area's best-known varieties. Countless restaurants use these names, so ask locals which one serves the best; their recommendations are the most reliable.

Glutinous rice cakes (nuomi baba), oil cakes (youba ba) and sugar sanzi are common street snacks among the Tujia and Miao people of Xiangxi.

Jishou has a street known as "Haochi Jie" (locally meaning "greedy street"), lined with snack stalls offering delicious food at astonishingly low prices. Several other specialty eateries are also worth a visit, such as Xiongjia Duck Shop, Xiangli Renjia, Laobotou and a specialty mutton restaurant. Ask locals for directions.

In the evening, many street stalls line the road from the county post office to the East Gate, mostly selling mala tang, barbecue and other snacks, all with a fiery kick. The Dashi Restaurant is well known in Fenghuang, serving sour cabbage, lichen, cured meat, stir-fried pine mushrooms and pot-style mushrooms with meat, dishes full of local character. The Old Street Restaurant on Handicraft Street is also not to be missed.

Accommodation in western Hunan is fairly convenient. Every county seat has guesthouses or hotels, and conditions are usually quite decent. Some places also have family inns, which are very convenient.

Miao paper-cuts and silverwork, Tujia brocade, and Fenghuang's batik and blue-printed cloth are the famous handicrafts of Xiangxi. Most are handmade with an antique charm, and they make lovely decorations for the home.

Shopping for handicrafts is one of the highlights of a trip to Fenghuang, and Handicraft Street is well worth a stroll. Among its shops, Wu Huahua's tie-dyeing, Xiong Chengzao and Liu Dapao's batik, and Ye Shuiyun's brocade are all worth a look, as they are made and sold by the artisans themselves.

Xiangxi zongjun mushrooms, Xiangxi wild kiwifruit, Guzhang Maojian tea, Guzhang chestnuts and Longshan big-head mustard are well-known local specialties of western Hunan. They are not only delicious but also quite inexpensive, so it is worth buying a good supply.

Xiangxi's nightlife is not highly developed, but cinemas, pool halls and bathhouses can be found in every county town. In Jishou, you can head to Haochi Street for cheap and tasty snacks.

The mountain people of Xiangxi are simple and warm-hearted, and they usually do not refuse to host outside guests in their homes. If you cannot find a hotel in the mountains, turning to a local villager will often bring a warm welcome. They may even refuse payment, so a small gift can come in handy.

Miao clothing comes in a wide variety of styles and distinctive craftsmanship, with more than 130 styles and a strong ethnic character. Techniques include cross-stitch, embroidery, batik, weaving and inlay work. Miao women's dress is especially distinctive, with pleated skirts and a fondness for silver ornaments.

No visit to Xiangxi is complete without a market. The Miao markets at La'er Mountain, Heku and Shanjiang in Fenghuang draw vendors from Guizhou, Chongqing and Miao villages across Xiangxi, earning them the saying "two provinces and one municipality gather at one market." The goods on offer are plentiful, prices are low and the handicrafts are exquisite, ranking among the finest of all markets. You can also see Miao women in festive dress.

La'er Mountain holds its market on the 2nd and 7th days of the lunar month, Shanjiang on the 3rd and 8th, and Heku on the 1st and 6th.

In the evenings, many vendors sell river lanterns along the Tuo River. It is said that releasing a lantern lets you make a wish, and many children will follow you insistently, trying to sell you one.

Glutinous rice with sour chili, tofu in sour broth, Miao sour fish and Fenghuang blood-cake duck are all rare delicacies worth tasting.

In Jishou, stop by the small restaurants at Hongqiaotou to try the local breakfast specialties of rice tofu (mi doufu) and mung bean noodles (lüdou mian). They are delicious.