# Western Hunan (Xiangxi) travel guide (湘西) Hunan Province · Central China, China · 14 places Canonical: https://cnatrip.com/en/destinations/hunan/western-hunan-xiangxi ## Quick itinerary - **Day 1:** Fenghuang Ancient Town - **Day 2:** Fenghuang Ancient Town → Qiliang Cave → Southern Great Wall → Laodong Miao Village → Shanjiang Miao Village → Fenghuang Ancient Town - **Day 3:** Fenghuang Ancient Town → Dehang Scenic Area → Furong Town → Zuolong Gorge → Mengdong River ## The feel of the place Tired of city skyscrapers and busy roads, many people come in search of Xiangxi's stilt houses and bluestone-paved lanes. In this region, steeped in an aura of antiquity, restless hearts can find calm. Fenghuang's beauty, Wangcun's old-world charm, the thrilling rafting on the Mengdong River and the region's ancient tales are what keep visitors lingering in Xiangxi. Fenghuang in particular, made famous worldwide by the writer Shen Congwen, has such traditional folkways and such elegant, ancient-town scenery that many visitors feel an urge to settle there. - tip: Fenghuang Ancient Town is very small, and every sight can be reached on foot. There is no need to plan a sightseeing route; simply wander at will and you will come across unexpected beauty. ### Sacrificial Rites The Miao people hold many sacrificial activities, mostly to pray to the gods for blessings. The main rituals include "Jielong" (Dragon Connecting), "Zhuiniu" (Cow Sacrifice) and "Tiaoxianghui" (Fragrance Dance Gathering). ### Boat Tips In Fenghuang Ancient Town you will often be asked whether you want to take a boat trip on the Tuo River. In fact, a boat ride on the Tuo River is already included in the combined ticket, so there is no need to pay extra. Moreover, private boats can only travel down the lower reaches of the Tuo River, where you cannot see the main sights such as the stilt houses. ### Maogusi Maogusi is a primitive form of drama with a storyline, performed by the Tujia people as part of the Xiao Baishou song-and-dance activities. Also called the Maolie Dance, it has been hailed by Chinese and foreign guests as "the thousand-year-old Maogusi that never grows old." ### Preparation and Advice ### Language The Xiangxi dialect can be understood if people speak slowly. Communicating in Mandarin with local young people is usually no problem. ### Climate and Travel Season Xiangxi's average annual temperature ranges from 15.8 to 16.9℃, with rainfall concentrated from April to June. Summers are not too hot and winters are not too cold, so the area can be visited year-round. ## Getting there & around ### Getting There and Away Xiangxi is mainly mountainous, and transport across the prefecture is not very convenient; few of its county towns have rail access. Jishou, as the capital of the Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, is the most accessible. ### Rail Fenghuang is now served by high-speed rail. Fenghuang Ancient Town Station has high-speed trains to and from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Changsha and other cities. ### Road As the prefectural capital, Jishou is connected by road with all the county towns in the prefecture and serves as the main hub between Xiangxi's sights. However, mountain roads are winding and hard going; the Aizhai Road near Jishou is especially famous for its nine bends and eighteen turns. ## Eat & drink Xiangxi cuisine is an important branch of Hunan cuisine. It excels at preparing wild mountain delicacies, smoked bacon and various cured meats. Its flavours emphasise salty, savoury, sour and spicy notes, and it is often cooked over charcoal. The curing methods are also distinctive, with most meats cured and then air-dried. Signature dishes include braised chestnuts with choy sum, Xiangxi sour meat and stir-fried blood duck. Tujia hotpot has a distinctive character, evident in its tableware, seating and dishes, and it is well worth trying if you get the chance. Qianzhou duck hotpot and Longshan Maoping chili chicken hotpot are the area's best-known varieties. Countless restaurants use these names, so ask locals which one serves the best; their recommendations are the most reliable. Glutinous rice cakes (nuomi baba), oil cakes (youba ba) and sugar sanzi are common street snacks among the Tujia and Miao people of Xiangxi. ### Specialty Food Spots Jishou has a street known as "Haochi Jie" (locally meaning "greedy street"), lined with snack stalls offering delicious food at astonishingly low prices. Several other specialty eateries are also worth a visit, such as Xiongjia Duck Shop, Xiangli Renjia, Laobotou and a specialty mutton restaurant. Ask locals for directions. In the evening, many street stalls line the road from the county post office to the East Gate, mostly selling mala tang, barbecue and other snacks, all with a fiery kick. The Dashi Restaurant is well known in Fenghuang, serving sour cabbage, lichen, cured meat, stir-fried pine mushrooms and pot-style mushrooms with meat, dishes full of local character. The Old Street Restaurant on Handicraft Street is also not to be missed. ## Nightlife Xiangxi's nightlife is not highly developed, but cinemas, pool halls and bathhouses can be found in every county town. In Jishou, you can head to Haochi Street for cheap and tasty snacks. ### Xiangxi Mountain Folk The mountain people of Xiangxi are simple and warm-hearted, and they usually do not refuse to host outside guests in their homes. If you cannot find a hotel in the mountains, turning to a local villager will often bring a warm welcome. They may even refuse payment, so a small gift can come in handy. ### Miao Clothing Miao clothing comes in a wide variety of styles and distinctive craftsmanship, with more than 130 styles and a strong ethnic character. Techniques include cross-stitch, embroidery, batik, weaving and inlay work. Miao women's dress is especially distinctive, with pleated skirts and a fondness for silver ornaments. ### Markets No visit to Xiangxi is complete without a market. The Miao markets at La'er Mountain, Heku and Shanjiang in Fenghuang draw vendors from Guizhou, Chongqing and Miao villages across Xiangxi, earning them the saying "two provinces and one municipality gather at one market." The goods on offer are plentiful, prices are low and the handicrafts are exquisite, ranking among the finest of all markets. You can also see Miao women in festive dress. La'er Mountain holds its market on the 2nd and 7th days of the lunar month, Shanjiang on the 3rd and 8th, and Heku on the 1st and 6th. ### River Lanterns In the evenings, many vendors sell river lanterns along the Tuo River. It is said that releasing a lantern lets you make a wish, and many children will follow you insistently, trying to sell you one. ### Fenghuang Specialty Dishes Glutinous rice with sour chili, tofu in sour broth, Miao sour fish and Fenghuang blood-cake duck are all rare delicacies worth tasting. ### Local Breakfast In Jishou, stop by the small restaurants at Hongqiaotou to try the local breakfast specialties of rice tofu (mi doufu) and mung bean noodles (lüdou mian). They are delicious. ## Shopping Miao paper-cuts and silverwork, Tujia brocade, and Fenghuang's batik and blue-printed cloth are the famous handicrafts of Xiangxi. Most are handmade with an antique charm, and they make lovely decorations for the home. Shopping for handicrafts is one of the highlights of a trip to Fenghuang, and Handicraft Street is well worth a stroll. Among its shops, Wu Huahua's tie-dyeing, Xiong Chengzao and Liu Dapao's batik, and Ye Shuiyun's brocade are all worth a look, as they are made and sold by the artisans themselves. Xiangxi zongjun mushrooms, Xiangxi wild kiwifruit, Guzhang Maojian tea, Guzhang chestnuts and Longshan big-head mustard are well-known local specialties of western Hunan. They are not only delicious but also quite inexpensive, so it is worth buying a good supply. ## Where to stay Accommodation in western Hunan is fairly convenient. Every county seat has guesthouses or hotels, and conditions are usually quite decent. Some places also have family inns, which are very convenient. ## Things to see - **Fenghuang Ancient Town** (★★★★★): Admission Fenghuang Ancient Town itself has no entrance fee. Admission to the Nanhua Mountain Shenfeng Scenic Area is ¥59. By Air Fly to Zhangjiajie Hehua Airport, then travel by rail to Jishou, and onward to Fenghuang. Alternatively, fly into Tongren Fenghuang Airport in Guizhou, about 30 km from Fenghuang (fewer flights available), then take a taxi to Fenghuang for about ¥100. You can also fly into Zhijiang Airport and travel from there. By Train Take a train to Jishou or Huaihua, then transfer to a high-speed train to Fenghuang. By Road Jishou → Fenghuang: Exit Jishou Railway Station, where air-conditioned tourist coaches to Fenghuang usually wait at the square between stations, ¥20 per person. Jishou South Bus Station (吉首汽车南站) operates from 6:30 to 17:30, with a bus to Fenghuang every 15–20 minutes, ¥20 per person; a private charter costs ¥100. Huaihua → Fenghuang: From Huaihua Railway Station, take a taxi (¥8) to Huaihua West Bus Station, then board a coach to Fenghuang, ¥40 per person. Tongren → Fenghuang: Get off the train at Yuping, travel to Tongren city centre, then transfer to a bus to Fenghuang, ¥25 per person.; Time needed 1–2 days — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/fenghuang-ancient-town - **Shen Congwen's Former Residence** (★★★): Time needed 1 hour — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/shen-congwen-s-former-residence - **Huilong Pavilion** (★★★★): Admission Free; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/huilong-pavilion - **Laodong Miao Village** (★★★★): Admission ¥148; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/laodong-miao-village - **Southern Great Wall** (★★★★): Admission ¥45; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/southern-great-wall - **Shanjiang Miao Village** (★★★★): Admission Miao Valley ¥100; Time needed 3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/shanjiang-miao-village - **Dehang Canyon** (★★★★): Admission ¥80; Time needed 0.5–2 days — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/dehang-canyon - **Furong Town** (★★★★): Admission ¥108; Time needed 0.5–1 day — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/furong-town - **Qiliang Cave** (★★★★): Admission ¥60; Opening hours 8：00—17：30; Time needed 1 hour — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/qiliang-cave - **Mengdong River** (★★★★): Admission Rafting ¥220; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/mengdong-river - **Zuolong Gorge Scenic Area** (★★★★): Admission ¥78; Time needed 2–4 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/zuolong-gorge-scenic-area - **Qianzhou Ancient Town** (★★★★): Admission ¥70; Opening hours 8：00—21：00; Time needed 2–4 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/qianzhou-ancient-town - **Miaoren Valley** (★★★★★): Admission ¥68; Opening hours 8：00—18：00; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/miaoren-valley - **Red Stone Forest National Geopark** (★★★★): Admission ¥120; Opening hours 8：00—18：00; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/red-stone-forest-national-geopark --- Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 1968–1987. Prices, hours and transport details are as printed in the August 2024 edition and may have changed. Always confirm with the venue before you travel.