Lugu Lake travel guide
泸沽湖
Lugu Lake is home to the Mosuo people, whose distinctive marriage customs centre on women: they hold the highest status, and every household is headed by a woman.…
10 places · In the guidebook: pages 245–254

Lugu Lake, Yunnan Province · AI illustration for China Trip
Quick itinerary
Lugu Lake in 2 days
- Day 1
- Lige Island→
- Nisai Village→
- Gemu Goddess Mountain→
- Xiaoluoshui→
- Luyuanya Cliff→
- Sichuan Lovers' Beach
- Day 2
- Lige Island→
- Yunnan Lovers' Beach→
- Daluoshui→
- Caohai Marsh→
- Walking Marriage Bridge→
- Goddess Beach
The feel of the place
- Eastern Kingdom of Women
- Lugu Lake is home to the Mosuo people, whose distinctive marriage customs centre on women: they hold the highest status, and every household is headed by a woman. Family members all trace descent through the maternal line, and children are raised by their mothers, maternal uncles and aunts, preserving the marriage system of a matrilineal clan society.
- The Mysterious “Walking Marriage”
- The mysterious Mosuo live by the principle of “no marriage for men, no wedding for women.” Men and women spend their whole lives in their own maternal households, and marriage takes place through the man’s “walking” (visiting). Mosuo adults who develop mutual affection through singing love songs together and everyday contact exchange gifts to confirm an “axia” (阿夏) relationship.
Preparation and Advice
Language
Visitors need not worry about communication at all, as most locals speak Mandarin.
Climate and Best Time to Visit
Lugu Lake enjoys abundant sunshine, temperatures vary little throughout the year, and the lake rarely freezes, so there is different scenery to enjoy in every season. The best time to visit is March to October. July to September is the rainy season, when travel may be inconvenient.
Things to see
Lige Peninsula
Lige Peninsula, with its beautiful scenery, sits at the foot of Gemu Goddess Mountain, where green hills meet clear waters. It is the best place to stay on Lake Lugu, especially lakeview rooms, where you can watch the sunrise and sunset, enjoy the views of lake and mountains, and listen to the water lapping at the shore at night. Each moment has its own charm.
3–5 hours · Included in the Lake Lugu scenic area entrance ticket
Gemu Goddess Mountain
Also known as “Lion Mountain”, it stands at 3,754.7 metres and is the highest peak near Lake Lugu. Inside the Goddess Cave at the summit is a naturally formed stalactite statue of the goddess. In Mosuo mythology, this mountain is the incarnation of a goddess, and during the Mountain Turning Festival, Mosuo people climb the mountain to worship. Majestic and towering, Lion Mountain was described by the writer Joseph Rock as “the most prominent sight in the Yongning landscape”. From the summit you can take in the entire view of Lake Lugu.
2 hours · Gemu Goddess Mountain cable car ¥78; Lake Lugu entrance ticket + Gemu Goddess Mountain cable car combo ¥160
Caohai Marsh
Caohai (Grass Sea) takes its name from its shallow waters, caused by long-term silt deposition, and the dense reeds that grow here. It lies to the southeast of Lake Lugu, where reeds form walls and waterways criss-cross, like emeralds set into the lake.
1–2 hours · Included in the Lake Lugu scenic area entrance ticket
Walking Marriage Bridge
The most famous spot in Caohai is the Walking Marriage Bridge, dubbed the “Number One Magpie Bridge Under Heaven”. It is a 300-metre wooden bridge extending out through the reeds of Caohai, and it is where Mosuo men and women carry out the walking marriage custom. Today the old bridge's timber has rotted and lies scattered across the marsh. The new bridge runs right beside the old one, spanning Caohai and providing convenience for local residents.
20–30 minutes
Nisai Village
A natural Mosuo village with only 14 households, it is very peaceful and scenic. The famous Lovers' Tree and Early Love Tree are located here, and Nisai is also the starting point of the cable car to Gemu Goddess Mountain.
1 day · Free
Luyuanya Cliff
The cliff here rises steeply, with a distinctive landscape. The viewing platform on top offers a sweeping view of Lugu Lake. Sitting on the rocks below the cliff, you may find yourself contemplating the wonder and harmony of nature, and feel a profound sense of the unity of heaven, earth and humanity.
1–2 hours · Included in the Lugu Lake scenic area ticket
Zhami Temple
The largest surviving Tibetan Buddhist monastery in the area, originally founded by the Karmapa of Tibet in the Ming dynasty. Normally, only one or two monks guard the temple, but all the monks gather here during religious ceremonies. The temple holds several major gatherings each year, including the Miluoqimo Assembly from the 3rd to the 9th day of the first lunar month, with the Tiaoshen (deity dance) on the 7th day; the Cuqu Assembly in mid-March of the lunar calendar; the 45-day Yaneng Assembly held in the sixth and seventh lunar months; and the Ganden Anqu Assembly on the 25th day of the 10th lunar month, held in honour of Tsongkhapa.
1–2 hours · ¥20
Goddess Bay
Goddess Bay lies on the west side of Lake Lugu, a quiet little harbour named after Gemu Goddess Mountain across the water. When the sun sets behind the western hills and the evening glow turns red, the whole lake takes on a warm hue, making it the perfect moment to photograph the lake and the sacred mountain together.
20–30 minutes
Daluoshui Village
Daluoshui Village is a must-visit for most travellers to Lugu Lake. The Mosuo Folk Museum is located here, with flower houses, a grandmother's house, a prayer hall, a cultural relics hall, and photographs and documents on Mosuo culture. It is also home to the "Walking Marriage" flower-tower climbing performance, which has delighted countless visitors and is a highlight of any trip to Lugu Lake. In the evenings, the Mosuo also don traditional costumes to perform songs and dances. After the performance, you can head to the lakeside, where tents are set up for barbecues.
0.5–1 day · Included in the Lugu Lake scenic area ticket
Getting there & around
Getting There
Lugu Lake straddles the Sichuan–Yunnan border, and it is easy to reach by bus from either province. From Sichuan, change buses in Xichang; from within Yunnan, change buses in Lijiang.
By Air
Ninglang Lugu Lake Airport is located in Baozidong, Shifoshan Village, Hongqiao Township, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County. An airport express service is now running, connecting directly to the scenic area and the county seat.
By Road
Lijiang to Lugu Lake
You can travel from Lijiang to Lugu Lake either by going first to Ninglang county town and transferring there, or by taking a direct bus to Lugu Lake.
1. Lijiang→Ninglang→Lugu Lake
There are many buses from Lijiang to Ninglang, departing from every bus station, and some sell combined tickets from Lijiang to Lugu Lake (with a combined ticket, you do not need to buy another ticket to Lugu Lake in Ninglang). There are also many buses from Ninglang to Lugu Lake, terminating at Luoshui Village (落水村).
2. Lijiang→Lugu Lake
Direct shuttle buses from Lijiang to Lugu Lake are now running, round trip about ¥140 per person, but departures are infrequent, usually around 9:00 a.m. daily, terminating at Luoshui Village. If you plan to travel directly, it is advisable to buy your ticket one day in advance.
3. Xichang→Lugu Lake
The Xichang Bus Tourism Passenger Center runs direct buses to Lugu Lake Town. The fare is about ¥94 and the journey takes about 7 hours. There are four departures daily, the earliest around 8:00 a.m., terminating at Zuosuo Town on Lugu Lake.
Local Transport
Within the Lugu Lake scenic area you can cycle or ride an e-bike around the lake, or stroll at a leisurely pace. If time is tight, self-driving or hiring a car locally is recommended. To visit the small islands in the lake, you can take a pig-trough boat.
Bicycles
Cycling around the lake is the most rewarding way to explore, but it is demanding and requires good stamina. Bicycles can be rented at the Visitor Reception Center, the Mukua Management Office, the Wuzhiluo Management Office and elsewhere; some guesthouses and shops also offer bike rental.
Hired Car
Hiring a car is one of the more convenient ways to get around. If you are travelling alone, ask your guesthouse owner, who can help you find others to share a car.
Pig-Trough Boat
The pig-trough boat is a distinctive watercraft of the Mosuo people, made by hollowing out a thick round log and sharpening both ends. Its long shape resembles a pig trough, hence the name. Pig-trough boat trips are operated locally, with fares ranging from ¥30 to ¥200 depending on distance.
Pig-Trough Boat Piers
Xichang Bus Tourism Passenger Center
Xichang Bus Tourism Passenger Center- Address:
- No. 412 South Sanchakou Road, Xichang, Sichuan (near Hangtian Avenue)
Near Grass Sea
Pig-Trough Boat PiersWuzhiluo Pier, Luowa Pier, Boshu Pier and Zhaeluo Pier Luowa: Luowa Pier Lige Peninsula: Lige Pier
Goddess Bay
Pig-Trough Boat PiersGoddess Bay Pier
Dazu Village
Pig-Trough Boat PiersDazu Pier, Wakua Pier
Daluoshui
Pig-Trough Boat PiersLuoshui Pier, Lugu Lake Tour Boat Pier, Xiaoyuba Pier and Sanjia Village Pier
Eat & drink
Local Specialties
Zhupiao Pork: a delicacy unique to the Mosuo people. The pig is slaughtered, its internal organs removed and its bones taken out (except the skull), then packed with plenty of seasonings and cured whole. It is rich and flavourful without being greasy, nutritious and delicious.
Suli Ma Wine: a traditional Mosuo brew with a pale yellow colour and low alcohol content. Sweet and refreshing, it is known as “Mosuo beer” and is an essential drink for welcoming guests in local homes.
Pickled Pears: the Mosuo’s traditional pickle, made from a local variety of ma pear (麻梨). The pears are soaked in clay jars with set proportions of salt, baijiu, ginger, garlic, Sichuan pepper and water, then sealed for a month before eating. Tangy, sweet and crisp, they make a delicious accompaniment to meals.
Pickled Sour Fish
Local SpecialtiesA traditional Mosuo delicacy. The fish is gutted and the flesh opened flat, then placed belly-down in a clay jar, with layers of tsampa, salt, Sichuan pepper, five-spice powder and other seasonings sprinkled in between. Once the jar is full, the mouth is sealed and it is kept in a cool place. It is ready to eat after half a month. It can be stir-fried, simmered in soup or used as a seasoning, and is tender, fresh and appetising.
Mosuo Flame BBQ
Recommended EateriesAn authentic Mosuo barbecue restaurant where meat is grilled over charcoal in fire pans. Be sure to try the signature Mosuo grilled meat.
- Address:
- 200 m east of the Mosuo Traditional Bonfire Party, Hubin Road
- Phone:
- 15984997769
Eco Steamed Stone-Pot Fish and Stone-Pot Chicken
Recommended EateriesExcellent lake fish cooked the most traditional way: steamed at high temperature for just 5 minutes. The accompanying vegetables are fresh and full of flavour.
- Address:
- 1st and 4th floors, Lugu Lake Xiangyue Yuanke Guesthouse, Ring-Lake Highway
- Phone:
- 13578389583
Where to stay
Along the beautiful shores of Lugu Lake you will find artsy, relaxing lakeside guesthouses, affordable youth hostels, grand well-appointed chain hotels and traditional Mosuo homes full of local character. In short, you will always find a place to stay.
Impression Shuiyunjian Boutique Resort Guesthouse
Recommended Accommodation(Lugu Lake Lovers' Beach branch)
- Address:
- Southwest corner of the intersection of Yalu Road and the Ring-Lake Highway, Mukua Village, Lugu Lake Town
- Phone:
- 18723647776
Banshan Yuli Lakeview Resort Homestay
Banshan Yuli Lakeview Resort Homestay- Address:
- Lu Xiaoluoshui Village, Yongning Township
- Phone:
- 13628887720
Shopping
Lugu Lake has many exquisite ethnic accessories and Mosuo clothing. Local specialties such as zhupiao pork, Suli Ma wine and dried apples can be bought directly from farmers or from shops in Ninglang county town.
Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 245–254. Translated from the Chinese edition; names and prices follow the guidebook. · Plain text version
