# Lugu Lake travel guide (泸沽湖)

Yunnan Province · Southwest, China · 10 places
Canonical: https://cnatrip.com/en/destinations/yunnan/lugu-lake

## Quick itinerary

- **Day 1:** Lige Island → Nisai Village → Gemu Goddess Mountain → Xiaoluoshui → Luyuanya Cliff → Sichuan Lovers' Beach
- **Day 2:** Lige Island → Yunnan Lovers' Beach → Daluoshui → Caohai Marsh → Walking Marriage Bridge → Goddess Beach

## The feel of the place

- **Eastern Kingdom of Women:** Lugu Lake is home to the Mosuo people, whose distinctive marriage customs centre on women: they hold the highest status, and every household is headed by a woman. Family members all trace descent through the maternal line, and children are raised by their mothers, maternal uncles and aunts, preserving the marriage system of a matrilineal clan society.
- **The Mysterious “Walking Marriage”:** The mysterious Mosuo live by the principle of “no marriage for men, no wedding for women.” Men and women spend their whole lives in their own maternal households, and marriage takes place through the man’s “walking” (visiting). Mosuo adults who develop mutual affection through singing love songs together and everyday contact exchange gifts to confirm an “axia” (阿夏) relationship.

## The feel of the place

### Preparation and Advice

### Language

Visitors need not worry about communication at all, as most locals speak Mandarin.

### Climate and Best Time to Visit

Lugu Lake enjoys abundant sunshine, temperatures vary little throughout the year, and the lake rarely freezes, so there is different scenery to enjoy in every season. The best time to visit is March to October. July to September is the rainy season, when travel may be inconvenient.


## Getting there & around

### Getting There

Lugu Lake straddles the Sichuan–Yunnan border, and it is easy to reach by bus from either province. From Sichuan, change buses in Xichang; from within Yunnan, change buses in Lijiang.

### By Air

Ninglang Lugu Lake Airport is located in Baozidong, Shifoshan Village, Hongqiao Township, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County. An airport express service is now running, connecting directly to the scenic area and the county seat.

### By Road

### Lijiang to Lugu Lake

You can travel from Lijiang to Lugu Lake either by going first to Ninglang county town and transferring there, or by taking a direct bus to Lugu Lake.

1. Lijiang→Ninglang→Lugu Lake

There are many buses from Lijiang to Ninglang, departing from every bus station, and some sell combined tickets from Lijiang to Lugu Lake (with a combined ticket, you do not need to buy another ticket to Lugu Lake in Ninglang). There are also many buses from Ninglang to Lugu Lake, terminating at Luoshui Village (落水村).

2. Lijiang→Lugu Lake

Direct shuttle buses from Lijiang to Lugu Lake are now running, round trip about ¥140 per person, but departures are infrequent, usually around 9:00 a.m. daily, terminating at Luoshui Village. If you plan to travel directly, it is advisable to buy your ticket one day in advance.

3. Xichang→Lugu Lake

The Xichang Bus Tourism Passenger Center runs direct buses to Lugu Lake Town. The fare is about ¥94 and the journey takes about 7 hours. There are four departures daily, the earliest around 8:00 a.m., terminating at Zuosuo Town on Lugu Lake.

### Local Transport

Within the Lugu Lake scenic area you can cycle or ride an e-bike around the lake, or stroll at a leisurely pace. If time is tight, self-driving or hiring a car locally is recommended. To visit the small islands in the lake, you can take a pig-trough boat.

### Bicycles

Cycling around the lake is the most rewarding way to explore, but it is demanding and requires good stamina. Bicycles can be rented at the Visitor Reception Center, the Mukua Management Office, the Wuzhiluo Management Office and elsewhere; some guesthouses and shops also offer bike rental.

### Hired Car

Hiring a car is one of the more convenient ways to get around. If you are travelling alone, ask your guesthouse owner, who can help you find others to share a car.

### Pig-Trough Boat

The pig-trough boat is a distinctive watercraft of the Mosuo people, made by hollowing out a thick round log and sharpening both ends. Its long shape resembles a pig trough, hence the name. Pig-trough boat trips are operated locally, with fares ranging from ¥30 to ¥200 depending on distance.

### Pig-Trough Boat Piers

- **Xichang Bus Tourism Passenger Center** —  (No. 412 South Sanchakou Road, Xichang, Sichuan (near Hangtian Avenue))
- **Near Grass Sea** — Wuzhiluo Pier, Luowa Pier, Boshu Pier and Zhaeluo Pier
Luowa: Luowa Pier
Lige Peninsula: Lige Pier
- **Goddess Bay** — Goddess Bay Pier
- **Dazu Village** — Dazu Pier, Wakua Pier
- **Daluoshui** — Luoshui Pier, Lugu Lake Tour Boat Pier, Xiaoyuba Pier and Sanjia Village Pier

## Eat & drink

### Local Specialties

Zhupiao Pork: a delicacy unique to the Mosuo people. The pig is slaughtered, its internal organs removed and its bones taken out (except the skull), then packed with plenty of seasonings and cured whole. It is rich and flavourful without being greasy, nutritious and delicious.

Suli Ma Wine: a traditional Mosuo brew with a pale yellow colour and low alcohol content. Sweet and refreshing, it is known as “Mosuo beer” and is an essential drink for welcoming guests in local homes.

Pickled Pears: the Mosuo’s traditional pickle, made from a local variety of ma pear (麻梨). The pears are soaked in clay jars with set proportions of salt, baijiu, ginger, garlic, Sichuan pepper and water, then sealed for a month before eating. Tangy, sweet and crisp, they make a delicious accompaniment to meals.

- **Pickled Sour Fish** — A traditional Mosuo delicacy. The fish is gutted and the flesh opened flat, then placed belly-down in a clay jar, with layers of tsampa, salt, Sichuan pepper, five-spice powder and other seasonings sprinkled in between. Once the jar is full, the mouth is sealed and it is kept in a cool place. It is ready to eat after half a month. It can be stir-fried, simmered in soup or used as a seasoning, and is tender, fresh and appetising.
- **Mosuo Flame BBQ** — An authentic Mosuo barbecue restaurant where meat is grilled over charcoal in fire pans. Be sure to try the signature Mosuo grilled meat. (200 m east of the Mosuo Traditional Bonfire Party, Hubin Road, 15984997769)
- **Eco Steamed Stone-Pot Fish and Stone-Pot Chicken** — Excellent lake fish cooked the most traditional way: steamed at high temperature for just 5 minutes. The accompanying vegetables are fresh and full of flavour. (1st and 4th floors, Lugu Lake Xiangyue Yuanke Guesthouse, Ring-Lake Highway, 13578389583)

## Shopping

Lugu Lake has many exquisite ethnic accessories and Mosuo clothing. Local specialties such as zhupiao pork, Suli Ma wine and dried apples can be bought directly from farmers or from shops in Ninglang county town.


## Where to stay

Along the beautiful shores of Lugu Lake you will find artsy, relaxing lakeside guesthouses, affordable youth hostels, grand well-appointed chain hotels and traditional Mosuo homes full of local character. In short, you will always find a place to stay.

- **Impression Shuiyunjian Boutique Resort Guesthouse** — (Lugu Lake Lovers' Beach branch) (Southwest corner of the intersection of Yalu Road and the Ring-Lake Highway, Mukua Village, Lugu Lake Town, 18723647776)
- **Banshan Yuli Lakeview Resort Homestay** —  (Lu Xiaoluoshui Village, Yongning Township, 13628887720)

## Things to see

- **Lugu Three Islands** (★★★★★):  — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/lugu-three-islands
- **Lige Peninsula** (★★★★): Admission Included in the Lake Lugu scenic area entrance ticket; Time needed 3–5 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/lige-peninsula
- **Gemu Goddess Mountain** (★★★★): Admission Gemu Goddess Mountain cable car ¥78; Lake Lugu entrance ticket + Gemu Goddess Mountain cable car combo ¥160; Time needed 2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/gemu-goddess-mountain
- **Goddess Bay** (★★★): Time needed 20–30 minutes — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/goddess-bay
- **Caohai Marsh** (★★★★): Admission Included in the Lake Lugu scenic area entrance ticket; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/caohai-marsh
- **Walking Marriage Bridge** (★★★★): Time needed 20–30 minutes — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/walking-marriage-bridge
- **Daluoshui Village** (★★★): Admission Included in the Lugu Lake scenic area ticket; Time needed 0.5–1 day — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/daluoshui-village
- **Nisai Village** (★★★★): Admission Free; Time needed 1 day — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/nisai-village
- **Luyuanya Cliff** (★★★★): Admission Included in the Lugu Lake scenic area ticket; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/luyuanya-cliff
- **Zhami Temple** (★★★★): Admission ¥20; Opening hours 8：00—18：00; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/zhami-temple

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Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 245–254. Prices, hours and transport details are as printed in the August 2024 edition and may have changed. Always confirm with the venue before you travel.