Zhenjiang travel guide

Zhenjiang has no airport. To fly, you need to go to Nanjing Lukou International Airport or Changzhou Benniu Airport. A shuttle bus runs directly from Zhenjiang to Nanjing Lukou Airport every day from 5:30 to 18:30, departing every half hour.

Almost all trains on the Shanghai–Nanjing line stop at Zhenjiang, and there are also trains departing from Zhenjiang to Beijing and Wenzhou.

Both the Shanghai–Nanjing and Beijing–Shanghai high-speed lines serve Zhenjiang. Since the opening of Zhenjiang South Station on the Beijing–Shanghai line, the fastest journey to Beijing takes 4 hours 45 minutes, and the fastest to Shanghai takes 54 minutes.

Most long-distance coaches and express buses in Zhenjiang depart from Zhenjiang Bus Station, with services to Shanghai, Suzhou, Wuxi, Nanjing, Ningbo and other destinations. In addition, Zhenjiang and Yangzhou are linked by the Zhenjiang–Yangzhou intercity bus line, which stops at major scenic spots and commercial centres.

In front of Zhenjiang Railway Station, shuttle buses to Yangzhou Bus Terminal run every day, roughly every 10 minutes, with no fixed timetable.

Zhenjiang has many bus routes, so it is very convenient to reach the scenic areas by bus. For routes up to 15 km, the fare is ¥1. For routes of 15–20 km, the fare is ¥2. For routes over 20 km, fares are charged by distance band.

Standard taxis have a flag fare of ¥10 for the first 3 km; new-energy taxis have a flag fare of ¥11 for the first 3 km. From 3 to 16 km, the fare is ¥2.7 per km; beyond 16 km, it is ¥3 per km. From 22:00 to 5:00 the next day, a night service fee of 20% of the fare above the flag fare is added.

Road transport is the fastest way to reach and leave Zhouzhuang, as the town is mainly connected to the outside world by road, with waterways serving only as a supplement.

Zhouzhuang's ancient town is a network of bridges facing and linked to one another. To this day, 14 stone bridges dating from the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties still survive.

If a rickshaw driver tells you he can take you into the town for free, don't believe him. Even if you get in, you won't be able to enter any of the small attractions inside. If you hold a tour guide certificate, a military officer's ID or a driver's licence (A-class), you can visit for free by showing that document.

1. From Hangzhou to Zhouzhuang, you can first take a train to Suzhou. At Suzhou North Bus Station (east of the railway station), there are direct coaches to Zhouzhuang, taking about 1 hour and costing ¥16. These coaches arrive at Zhouzhuang New Bus Station, which is 2 km from the old town. After getting off, there are many pedicab rickshaws; a fare of about ¥5 will take you into the ancient town.

2. Zhouzhuang has direct buses to Tongli, or you can take a bus from Suzhou that passes through Tongli. The journey takes about 20 minutes.

The “Wansan Family Feast” emphasises seasonal produce and carefully selected ingredients, excelling in colour, aroma, taste and presentation. Signature dishes include Wansan trotters, three-flavour glutinous rice balls, steamed mandarin fish, steamed and braised eel rolls, perch and water shield soup, ginger-marinated river snails, meat-stuffed oil pockets, layered tofu skin with pork, braised dried tofu and slow-steamed lotus root.

Wansan trotters generally cost ¥60 each.

Zhouzhuang is well connected by road. You can take a tourist express or a regular bus from Shanghai, Nanjing, Suzhou, Kunshan or Zhejiang. Cities close to Suzhou, such as Shanghai and Nanjing, also have direct buses to Zhouzhuang.

Shanghai → Zhouzhuang

From Shanghai Long-Distance Bus Terminal: departures at 8:00, 9:30, 12:00, 14:20 and 15:40.

From Shanghai South Railway Station: departures at 8:15 and 13:20. Journey about 1.5 hours; fare ¥29.

Jiaxing → Zhouzhuang

Kunshan → Zhouzhuang

Nanjing → Zhouzhuang

Suzhou → Zhouzhuang

The Jishui River, which flows past the north of the town, is a national Class IV waterway and an important route linking Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Anhui and Shanghai. It runs east to the Port of Shanghai and west to connect with the Grand Canal.

From Zhouzhuang Bus Station to the old town, you can take a taxi or a pedicab rickshaw. If you take a rickshaw in Zhouzhuang, be sure to agree on the price beforehand.

Apart from small wooden boats on the waterways, vehicles are not permitted in the Zhouzhuang old town, and bicycles are also banned.

Boat trips in the Zhouzhuang scenic area are available on both the old town and new district waterways. In the old town, a wooden boat costs ¥100 for 20 minutes (up to 8 people). In the new district, a boat costs ¥180 per hour (up to 8 people).

Located on the shore of Nanhu Lake at the southernmost tip of Zhouzhuang, Quanfu Temple is known as the “Buddhist Kingdom on the Water”. There is a saying that Quanfu Temple existed before ancient Zhouzhuang. The scenery here is very beautiful.

Inside the scenic area is the Guyun-style guest house (古韵风客房), built in the style of Jiangnan vernacular dwellings, right beside Qinglong Bridge in the old town. It is convenient for sightseeing, and staying there means you avoid the hassle of passing through the scenic area's entrance gates.

Zhenjiang cuisine belongs to the Huaiyang culinary tradition. It favours well-cooked, soft textures, specialises in braising, stewing, simmering and roasting, and emphasises preserving the original flavour and the fresh taste of the broth.

Soy sauce noodles are a must-try in Zhenjiang. They used to be found everywhere at roadside stalls, but today you will rarely see them on the menus of restaurants large or small. Don't worry, though: almost every restaurant serves shredded pork noodles, which are essentially soy sauce noodles with a little shredded pork added. At ¥4 a bowl, they're well worth a try.

Locals have a catchy rhyme: “Zhenjiang has three oddities: its fragrant vinegar never spoils, its cold meat is not served as a main dish, and lids get boiled in the noodle pot.” The “three oddities” refer to Zhenjiang's fragrant black vinegar, Zhenjiang Yao meat (肴肉, cold pork) and Zhenjiang noodle and pastry snacks. They are called “oddities” perhaps to describe how incredibly good their flavours are.

Shen Hall Restaurant is Zhouzhuang's most famous eatery. Wansan Pork Knuckle is a must-try, and it's best eaten here, though be prepared to spend: prices already rival those in Shanghai. Zhouzhuang's river snails and small fish are also tasty.

Zhouzhuang is a water town with an abundance of fresh seafood year-round. The most famous are the “Three Delicacies of the Xian River”: perch, white clams and icefish. Zhouzhuang also produces eel, and the local saying “When the rice ripens, the eel rivals ginseng” is known to everyone. Soft-shelled turtle, river shrimp and more are also available.

If it's not a holiday, it's best to find a small inn within the ancient town. Facilities and hygiene are decent, and prices are only around ¥120; you can haggle. On weekends, prices typically rise by around ¥20.

Mention Zhenjiang and many people will immediately think of Zhenjiang vinegar. The famous “Jinshan” brand Zhenjiang black vinegar has a history of over 130 years and is known for its “color, aroma, sourness, mellowness and richness.”

Zhenjiang's handicrafts are also quite renowned. White marble screens, Jinshan lanterns and others have long been celebrated and are the top choice for souvenirs. Other well-known local specialties include Baihua tribute wine, Danyang sealed-jar wine, Zhenjiang shad and Yangtze River knifefish.

Zhenjiang's specialty markets and streets include Zhongshan East Road Commercial Street, Nanmen Street Night Market, Jingkou Sluice Farmers' Market, Wushisan Slope Antiques Market, Xijin Ferry Cultural Street, and Linyin Road Flower and Bird Market.

Zhouzhuang at night is much quieter than by day. Why not sit down at Sanmao Teahouse, which rivals Zhouzhuang in fame? Pick a window seat, sip your tea and listen to the soft Wu dialect. The nostalgia and melancholy feel like a dream, almost unreal.