Nujiang (Salween River) travel guide
怒江
Several ethnic groups, including the Lisu and Nu, live along the Nujiang (Salween) River, but the Derung people are the most distinctive. The Dulong River is their only home,…
9 places · In the guidebook: pages 269–278

Nujiang (Salween River), Yunnan Province · AI illustration for China Trip
The feel of the place
- Derung People
- Several ethnic groups, including the Lisu and Nu, live along the Nujiang (Salween) River, but the Derung people are the most distinctive. The Dulong River is their only home, and their way of life differs completely from the outside world. Because the area is so hard to reach, these traditions have been preserved intact. The tattoo patterns on Derung women's faces are striking and full of ethnic character.
- Majestic Beauty
- Compared with most of Yunnan, the Nujiang Gorge can rightly be called one of the world's most majestic canyons. Once you are inside the gorge, the low roar of the river and the steep, towering cliffs on either side will give you a visceral sense of nature's power.
Lisu Gathering
From the first to the fourth day of the Lunar New Year, the Lisu hold the grand Zaotang Festival (Bathing Festival). It is the community's major gathering, which also features the exchange of goods and related celebrations, such as “bathing,” “swinging on swings,” and, in the evening, performances of “climbing knife ladders and walking on fire.”
Local Specialties
1. Locals enjoy drinking. If you stay with a local family, it is best to make your drinking capacity clear in advance.
2. A local water liquor called chujiu (pestle wine) is available, at around 18% ABV. It tastes good but can easily make you tipsy.
3. Xiala and Gongla are two local signature dishes. In the Nu language, “la” means alcohol, so these are essentially “meat stir-fried with alcohol” and “egg stir-fried with alcohol.” They are spicy and can heat you up, so eat them in moderation.
4. Shiban baba (stone-slab flatbread) is another Nu specialty, and you can find it in Bingzhongluo.
Travel Tips
1. You no longer need a border permit to travel to Liuku. You only need to show your ID card at the border checkpoint.
2. Border guards hand out leaflets with information on local travel agencies, guesthouses, reception points, and suggested routes. These are useful if it is your first trip to the Nujiang.
3. You must hire a car to explore the Nujiang Gorge, or your movements will be very restricted.
4. The Lisu Zaotang Festival is held in Dengen, 12 km from Liuku.
5. The Lisu no longer allow people to point cameras at them, and signs reading “No close-up photography” have been posted as a warning.
6. Tourism in the Nujiang is open-access, so there are no entrance tickets.
7. The morning mist is the most beautiful sight in the Nujiang Gorge and not to be missed, so be sure to get up early.
8. Admire the locals' cable crossings (sliding ropes) from a distance and do not try them yourself. They require skill, and a mistake could cost you your life in the river.
Best Time and Place to See the Nujiang
Climb Gongdang Sacred Mountain before 14:00. The best time to view the First Bend of the Nujiang is before the mountain's shadow falls over the river. Qiunatong is a small village surrounded by snow-capped peaks. The road has now been completed, and there is a reception point there. You can visit as a day trip or stay overnight in Qiunatong.
Three Parallel Rivers
The Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas lie in the longitudinal valleys of the Hengduan Mountains, the southern extension of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau in northwest Yunnan. The area includes the Nujiang and Diqing prefectures, parts of Lijiang and Dali, and borders Myanmar to the west and Sichuan and Tibet to the north.
The site includes three scenic areas along the Nujiang, Lancang (Mekong), and Jinsha rivers, eight core scenic zones, and more than 60 scenic spots, covering over 3,500 square km. The three great rivers run in parallel for hundreds of kilometres through the longitudinal valleys of the northwest Yunnan Hengduan Mountains. At their closest point, the three rivers are just 66.3 km apart in a straight line. The Nujiang and Lancang are separated at their nearest point by only the 18.6 km-wide Nushan Mountains.
Highlights include the Three Parallel Rivers themselves, snow-capped peaks, canyons and rapids, forest and snowfield landscapes, glacial lakes, alpine meadows, rare plants and animals, the spectacular Baishuitai (White Water Terraces), and unique ethnic cultures.
Preparation and Information
Language
Mandarin is widely spoken, so you will have no communication problems.
Climate and Best Seasons
The Nujiang lies in a gorge, so its temperatures are higher than those of other areas at the same latitude, and winters are mild rather than severely cold. However, avoid the Nujiang during the rainy season from July to September. Road conditions are poor, and landslides and other accidents are common, which can disrupt your itinerary.
Things to see
Zhalatong Village in Bingzhongluo is planted with peach trees. In spring, when the blossoms open, the pink flowers look like a rosy sunset and paint the island in color, which is why it is called Peach Blossom Island. Each year on the third day of the second lunar month, the local Nu people hold the Peach Blossom Festival to honour Baima, their ancestor.
Wuli Village
Wuli Village is a small hamlet on the ancient Tea Horse Road. Its scenery is picture-perfect: the distinctive wooden houses of the Nu people emerge through the morning mist, with wisps of cooking smoke rising above them. Together with the green fields and the blue waters of the Nu River, the village feels like a fairyland.
3–5 hours · Free
Qiunatong Village
Qiunatong Village is the last village at the northern end of the Nu River Grand Canyon and the essence of the entire canyon. Dense primeval forest and numerous waterfalls surround it. Locals call it the “Garden of the Gods.” Biluo Snow Mountain, meadows, pine forests, ancient trees, wooden houses, fences, terraced fields and streams are arranged harmoniously, forming a tranquil, peaceful rural hidden paradise. It is often called “a picturesque little village that has fallen from heaven to earth.” The village also has a Catholic church.
1 day · Free
Meili Highway Greenway
The Rainbow Trail winds along the Nu River, where every step reveals a new view of the canyon. Every snapshot looks like a masterpiece. Here, you can calm your mind and experience the new changes along the Nu River.
Nature
Dulongjiang Gorge
Experts have designated the Dulong River Gorge a “natural museum of wild plants,” and it is one of the regions in China with the most intact original ecosystems. The gorge is lined with snow-capped peaks and steep cliffs. From October to May of the following year, heavy snow closes the mountain passes and cuts the area off from the outside world. The Dulong women’s custom of “painting” and “tattooing” their faces is full of ethnic charm, and some elderly women still wear facial tattoos today.
1–2 days
Biluo Snow Mountain
Biluo Snow Mountain is the filming location of the movie “Biluo Snow Mountain.” Its primeval ecosystem is remarkably well preserved. Weather in the mountains changes rapidly, with waterfalls scattered everywhere and numerous alpine lakes, earning it the name “Mountain of Ten Thousand Waterfalls and a Thousand Lakes.” In late spring and early summer, clouds rise through the mountains. Standing at the summit to watch the sunrise or sunset is truly spectacular.
1 day · Free
Gaoligongshan National Nature Reserve
“Gaoligong” means “mountain of the Gaoligong family.” It is the only large area on Earth that still preserves the transition from humid tropical forest to temperate forest. Thanks to its rich diversity of plants and animals, the academic community has hailed it as the “world’s genetic bank of species.” Within the reserve grows a “World Rhododendron King” that blooms more than 40,000 flowers each year. In addition, waterfalls, flowing springs and snow-capped mountain lakes are everywhere, and its stunning scenery makes it a paradise for photographers and hikers.
1–3 hours · Free
Zhiziluo
“Zhiziluo” means “a good place” in the Lisu language. It was once the seat of the Nujiang Prefecture government. Due to transport, safety and other factors, the government relocated, and the schools, government offices, library and other buildings were frozen in the 1980s. As a result, Zhiziluo is a place where time seems to have stopped, a living fossil of an era and a city of memories. Some former residents, unaccustomed to life down in the valley, later moved back, bringing a new spark of life to the town.
0.5–1 day · Free
Stone Moon (Shiyueliang)
At an altitude of 3,300 metres in the middle section of the Gaoligong Mountains, a huge cave penetrates a marble karst formation. The cave is over 100 metres deep, more than 40 metres wide and about 60 metres high. From 100 km away along the Nu River heading north, you can already see this cave framed by blue sky and white clouds. The people of the Nu River gave it a beautiful name: Stone Moon (Shiyueliang).
1 hour · Free
Getting there & around
Getting There
The Nujiang is in western Yunnan, but it is only accessible by road. If you plan to visit, prepare yourself for long hours on long-distance buses and rough road conditions. You can travel directly from Kunming, or from Dali or Baoshan, both of which are closer to the Nujiang and have airports.
From Kunming: Buses to the Nujiang run daily, usually overnight. You depart at night and arrive in the morning, a journey of 13 hours. It can be tiring.
From Dali: Dali is 200 km from the Nujiang. A bus departs for the Nujiang every two hours from Dali Bus Station, a journey of about 5 hours.
From Baoshan: Baoshan is 146 km from the Nujiang, a journey of about 3 hours.
Getting Around
The Nujiang is a narrow strip of land squeezed between the Biluo Snow Mountains and the Gaoligong Mountains, with the rushing Nujiang River running through the middle. Its main attractions are on the riverbanks, along with the ethnic minority villages and their traditional way of life.
Hired cars are expensive. A 6-seat minivan typically costs ¥350–500 per day, not including the driver's meals and lodging, so plan your budget carefully.
Bus Services
Buses to Liuku run daily from Kunming's Xiyuan Bus Station. Note that buses do not run on the first and second days of the Spring Festival. Service resumes on the third day of the Lunar New Year.
Eat & drink
If you can adapt to Yunnan flavours, you should have no trouble with food in the Nujiang.
Sanjiangyuan Farmhouse Restaurant
Serves Nu specialties such as pipa pork.
- Address:
- No. 67, Bingzhongluo Street, Gongshan County Town
- Phone:
- 0886-3581025
Where to stay
Tourism in the Nujiang follows the river. The main overnight stops are Liuku, Fugong, Gongshan, and Bingzhongluo. In the first three, there are government guesthouses and similar accommodation. Prices are modest and standards vary, but finding a bed is never a problem. In Bingzhongluo, you will stay with local families.
Gongshan Lanwan Boutique Hotel
Gongshan Lanwan Boutique Hotel- Address:
- 50 m south of the Dulong River Road Police Station
- Phone:
- 0886-3588888
Shopping
Crossbows are used for hunting by the Nu and Lisu people, and their arrows fly extremely fast. The best crossbows are deep-coloured, with a reddish or blackish tint. You can usually buy them at the Zaotang Festival.
The Derung blanket is the everyday clothing of the Derung people. Its vivid colours make it highly decorative. Handwoven versions are usually expensive. You can buy them in Liuku and Gongshan.
Nightlife
In Fugong and Bingzhongluo, local communities hold events from time to time. Joining in the festivities with the ethnic minority residents is great fun.
Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 269–278. Translated from the Chinese edition; names and prices follow the guidebook. · Plain text version
