Ili travel guide
伊犁
A tragic story: in the Western Han dynasty, Liu Jian, King of Jiangdu, plotted to usurp the throne of Emperor Wu. When the plot was exposed, he took his own life, and his entire clan was executed,…
11 places · In the guidebook: pages 857–869
Ili, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region · AI illustration for China Trip
Quick itinerary
Ili in 4 days
- Day 1
- Urumqi→
- Sayram Lake (overnight)
- Day 2
- Sayram Lake→
- Guozigou Valley→
- Khorgas (overnight)
- Day 3
- Khorgas Port of Entry→
- Huiyuan Ancient City→
- Ili River Bank→
- Damazha Mausoleum (overnight in Yining)
- Day 4
- Yining City→
- Kalajun / Nalati / Tangbula Grasslands
The feel of the place
- The Princess’s Tears
- A tragic story: in the Western Han dynasty, Liu Jian, King of Jiangdu, plotted to usurp the throne of Emperor Wu. When the plot was exposed, he took his own life, and his entire clan was executed, leaving only his daughter, Liu Xijun. Emperor Wu made her a princess and sent her far away to marry the King of Wusun, who was past fifty. The Kingdom of Wusun corresponds to today’s Ili Valley, and it was an ally on which Emperor Wu relied to resist the Xiongnu. Before setting out, the unfortunate princess told Emperor Wu, “So long as the realm is at peace, I will die without regret.” The Ili Valley is a fertile land, embraced by the Tianshan Mountains like a strong pair of arms. She wrote a song, the “Lament of Sorrow,” which is recorded in the Book of Han, Treatise on the Western Regions: “My family sent me far away to a distant land, to wed the King of Wusun. My home is a dome tent with felt walls; my food is meat and my drink is fermented milk. Dwelling here, homesickness wounds my heart. I wish I could become a yellow swan and fly back to my homeland!”
- We Are All Northeasterners!
- Today, the youngest outsiders in this land are the Xibe people of the Chapchal Xibe Autonomous County in Ili. On the 18th day of the fourth lunar month in 1764, Emperor Qianlong dispatched 1,000 Xibe soldiers from Shengjing (today’s Shenyang) and other places, together with their families, more than 4,000 people in all. They marched for a full year from the Northeast to the southern bank of the Ili Valley to garrison the region. These people, who had always lived by herding and hunting, made this place their home. Think about it: more than 200 years ago, these people carried their homes from the easternmost part of China to the westernmost. The hardships they endured must have been immense.
tip: The highlights of Western Xinjiang are Sayram Lake, Guozigou and the Ili region. To cover the whole of Western Xinjiang, you will spend a great deal of time on the road, so time is the key resource. Plan your itinerary carefully to avoid repeating similar sights.
Three Cultural Relic Wonders
The grassland earthen tumuli widely scattered across the Ili grasslands, the mysterious and colourful Ili rock paintings, and the rugged, whimsical grassland stone statues together form the “Three Cultural Relic Wonders” of the Ili grasslands.
Preparation and Advice
Language
Many Han Chinese live in the towns and county seats, so locals generally speak some Chinese. However, in genuine herders’ homes and villages, people speak only their own language.
Climate and Travel Season
Yining, the Ili prefectural capital, is the most humid city in Xinjiang, with annual precipitation of 200–300 mm and an average annual temperature of around 8℃. Its pleasant climate, with poplars and apple trees lining the streets, has earned it the nickname “Apple City”: apple trees blossom in spring, and the apples hang on the branches in autumn.
Folk Culture
Don’t miss the graceful Uyghur dance known as Saynam, and be sure not to miss the beautiful ethnic minority music known as the suite (taoqu).
Xinjiang’s Moutai
Special Ili Daqu is a famous local product of Ili, also called Ili Tequ. It is a strong-aroma (nongxiang) baijiu with a rich fragrance and a smooth, full-bodied taste, and it is hailed as the “Moutai of Xinjiang.”
Heavenly Horses
A Xinjiang folk song goes, “When you ride, ride an Ili horse.” Ili, praised for having “galloped across Kunlun and traversed the Western Extremes,” is the homeland of the Heavenly Horses. According to historical records, during the reign of Emperor Wu of the Han dynasty, a foreign state presented the Wusun horse. The emperor, struck by its divine vigour and upright bearing, named it the “Heavenly Horse.” Later, tribute arrived from Ferghana in the Western Regions, bringing the “blood-sweating” horse (it was said that its sweat was blood-red). The emperor then renamed the Wusun horse the “Western Extreme Horse” and called the blood-sweating horse the “Heavenly Horse.” Both the “Heavenly Horse” and the “Western Extreme Horse” mentioned here are ancestors of the Ili Kazakh horse. The Ili horse has a handsome appearance and a sturdy build, strong resistance to disease, and is one of China’s prized horse breeds.
The Yining saddle of Ili is also famous alongside the “Heavenly Horses.” It combines saddle-frame making, leatherwork, carving and inlay, and is an exquisitely crafted work of art.
Things to see
Kokesu Grand Canyon
One of the routes within the Kalajun scenic area, centred on canyons, waterways and alpine grasslands. Crocodile Bay, rafting and boat cruises are all on this route, and visitors can tour by boat. Beautiful scenery and few crowds make it well worth a visit.
Photography · Nature
Kalajun Grassland
Kalajun Grassland lies along the northern route of the ancient Silk Road in China and preserves the grassland's original ecology. It is an important part of the 'Xinjiang Tianshan' and was inscribed as a World Natural Heritage Site in 2013. Across the boundless grassland, tall, lush Schrenk spruces stand in rows, and the distant ranges of the Tianshan rise in layered, distinct profiles, creating a lofty and expansive atmosphere. Galloping across the wide horizon will leave you feeling wonderfully free!
1–2 days · Whole-area pass ¥275
Guozigou Valley
Also known as Talaqi Valley, this 28-km-long gorge has long been an important gateway linking the Central Plains with Central Asia and Europe. Even today, the Wuyi Highway between Lake Sayram, Bole and Yining still runs through Guozigou. The valley takes its name from the many wild apple trees growing in its mountains. When Genghis Khan campaigned westward, he passed through here and had 48 plank roads built; during the Qing dynasty, 42 bridges were built on the old route. The road winds and turns, and the scenery is unrivalled: sharp peaks rise on both sides, mountain streams murmur, and pine forests and pastures spread across the slopes. Even if you pass through quickly by bus, you will feel as though you have turned straight onto the road to paradise.
2–3 hours
Tangbula Grassland
A collective name for the valley grassland scenery along the upper reaches of the Kashi River, a natural landscape combining forest, grassland, rapids and rock formations. The area has many sights; it is said to contain 113 gullies, each with its own character. The famous film 'Red Flowers of the Tianshan' was partly shot here.
3–4 hours
Nalati Scenic Area
Nalati Grassland sits on a major transport route between northern and southern Xinjiang and is one of the four great alpine river-valley grasslands in the world. It has long been a famous pasture. Here you can enjoy the distinctive grassland scenery of the Western Regions and immerse yourself in the rich, rustic folk culture of the Kazakh people; many of the region's gatherings are held here.
1–2 days · Hiking entry ¥95; shuttle bus ¥24–40; customised self-drive tour ¥300 per person
Tekes Bagua City
The world's only fully preserved Bagua City, and it has no traffic lights. Its streets radiate in a circular, octagonal layout, forming a maze-like network where every road connects to the next. The city also offers rich folk customs, a deep history and beautiful natural scenery, including the well-preserved Wusun ancient tomb complex, the site of the 'summer capital' of the Wusun Kingdom, grassland stone statues, ancient rock paintings and rock wind caves.
0.5–1 day · Free
Ili Flower Viewing
Zhaosu Rapeseed Flowers: On the open Zhaosu Grassland lies the largest rapeseed field in China. Every July, golden rapeseed flowers and sunflowers bloom in full, adding a romantic and picturesque touch to the grassland.
2–3 hours · Viewing lavender from the road requires no ticket; entering the fields to take photos costs ¥5–10 paid to the farmer; the Princess Jieyou Lavender Garden is sold separately, ¥35 in peak season and ¥17 in off-season; free
Duku Highway
The Duku Highway winds across the Tianshan like a giant dragon. This 561-km road linking northern and southern Xinjiang traverses towering mountains and ridges, cuts through deep valleys, and connects many ethnic minority communities. It winds over peaks and snowy mountains, with magnificent, beautiful scenery all along the way. The road is itself the destination, and drivers can also enjoy the thrill of the drive. There are plenty of parking spots along the route for stopping to admire the view and take photos.
Photography · Nature
Ili River
The Ili River flows past 16 km southwest of Yining City. Originating in the Tianshan Mountains, it gathers the Tekes, Gongnaisi and Kashi rivers to form the beautiful and fertile Ili River Valley, before flowing into Lake Balkhash in Kazakhstan. It is the river with the largest water flow in Xinjiang.
1–2 hours
Huiyuan Ancient City
To strengthen its governance of the Ili region, the Qianlong Emperor established the Ili General here and built Huiyuan City, around which eight satellite towns were gradually constructed, collectively known as the 'Nine Cities of Ili.' Huiyuan City still preserves the old site of the General's Residence. Its eaves are plain and elegant, without painted beams or carvings, and two stone lions lie at the gate, gazing watchfully. Lin Zexu once led the local people in building irrigation works here, earning the respect of the Ili General and the people of all ethnic groups.
4–5 hours · Combined ticket ¥125
Four Great Mazars of Ili
The Qapqal Mazar, Hongnahai Mazar, Yining County Sultan Wais Khan Mazar and Huocheng County Tughluk Timur Khan Mazar are collectively known as the 'Four Great Mazars of Ili.'
History & Culture
Getting there & around
Getting There
By Air
By Rail
Currently there is a direct train, Z6519, from Urumqi to Yining, with a journey time of about 4.5 hours. Take Bus Route 1 to Yining Railway Station.
Road
Road transport in the Ili Prefecture is convenient. The prefecture has several large long-distance bus stations, such as the Ili Prefecture Bus Station and the Agricultural Division 4 Bus Station, with daily coaches to destinations within and beyond the prefecture, mostly in the direction of Urumqi. The old Dashijie Bus Station is no longer in use; the newly opened station is the Yili Bus Station.
Long-Distance Bus Stations
Getting Around Town
Yining city has local buses: Route 1 goes to the long-distance bus station and Route 3 goes to the airport. Taxis start at ¥5. The Yining long-distance bus station also runs coaches to destinations within the Ili region, including Khorgas Port (100 km), Nalati Town (250 km), Tekes County (115 km) and Chabuchar (20 km).
Ili Airport
AirLocated in the prefectural capital, Yining, 5 km from the city centre, with daily flights between Yining and Urumqi. There are direct flights to Yining from Beijing. In the city, take Bus Route 3 or the airport shuttle to reach the airport.
- Phone:
- 0999-8222262
Yining Station Telephone
Rail- Phone:
- 0991-7726222
Ili Prefecture Bus Station
Ili Prefecture Bus Station- Address:
- 460 Jiefang West Road, Yining City, Ili Prefecture, Xinjiang
- Phone:
- 0999-8139263
Agricultural Division 4 Bus Station
Agricultural Division 4 Bus Station- Address:
- No. 7, Alley 4, Gongyuan Street, Yining City
- Phone:
- 0999-8121213
Eat & drink
Piwo
Also known as kavas, this is a Russian-style drink unique to Yining City in Xinjiang. It tastes somewhat like honey beer, is appetising, and will make you tipsy if you drink too much. Paired with lamb skewers, it is a real treat. In Ili, a large cup of piwo usually costs ¥6.
Youtazi
Youtazi is a flaky pastry invented by the Hui people, shaped like a pagoda and usually eaten for breakfast. It is white and glossy, made of dough as thin as paper with many layers. It is oily but not greasy, soft but not sticky, and appeals to all ages. Ili's youtazi has been improved with a new filling, creating the "saiweizi" version (yellow radish youtazi), which is very popular.
Ice Cream
Ili's ice cream is very famous. The natural pastures of Xinjiang provide excellent raw ingredients, giving the ice cream its smooth texture and sweet flavour. In Yining's Han Street there is an old-established ice cream shop; ask around nearby and you will find it. It is well worth a try.
Where to stay
Yining Yili Grand Hotel
Yining Yili Grand Hotel- Address:
- 23 Stalin Street
- Phone:
- 0999-7720070
Shopping
Taxilaipu Kaishi Market in Yining has fashionable goods from neighbouring countries, as well as jewellery and crafts made with fine workmanship by local artisans.
Khorgas Port is also worth a visit for shopping. Khorgas, Kulma Pass (Hongqilafu) in Kashgar and Alashankou in Bole are the three ports open in Xinjiang. A border pass is required to travel to Khorgas. The port connects China and Kazakhstan and has a thriving border trade. If you have time and want to buy genuine foreign goods, it is worth a look.
Recommended Specialities
Wood carvings (wooden bowls, ladles, flower vases, etc.), horn whips and Xibe fragrance bags (tobacco pouches) are all handmade. Saddles and jewellery: Yining is the "land of heavenly horses," so its saddle craftsmanship is exceptional.
Khorgas Border Inspection Station
- Phone:
- 0999-8791139
Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 857–869. Translated from the Chinese edition; names and prices follow the guidebook. · Plain text version