# Dali travel guide (大理)

Yunnan Province · Southwest, China · 20 places
Canonical: https://cnatrip.com/en/destinations/yunnan/dali

## Quick itinerary

- **Day 1:** Dali Ancient Town → Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple → Three Pagodas Reflection Park → Renmin Road (dinner)
- **Day 2:** Erhai Lake Circuit (Dali Old Town → Caicun → Xizhou → Butterfly Spring → Taoyuan Wharf → Shuanglang → Wase Town → Xiao Putuo Island → Jinsuo Island → Tianlong Babu Film and Television City → Dali Old Town)
- **Day 3:** Dali Ancient Town → Cangshan Mountain
- **Day 4:** Dali → Shaxi Ancient Town → Baoshi Mountain → Jianchuan County
- **Day 5:** Jianchuan County → Nuodeng Ancient Village

## The feel of the place

- **Folk village:** Locals in Bai costume move among the crowds of visitors who have come from far and wide, and it can feel as though you have walked into a newly developed folk tourism village.
- **Foreigners' Street:** Foreigners' Street has been repaired and rebuilt many times, and from the outside it now looks much like any other street, but the bars and shops along it still keep their own distinct character.
- **Five Golden Flowers:** Films, a form of popular art, have made the beauty of Bai women famous far and wide. In Dali Old Town, young women in modernized Bai costume may pass you at any moment.
- **Xian (leisure):** In everyday Dali speech, 'xian' can mean to drop by someone's home for a chat, to go on an outing, or to go shopping. The word echoes the romantic, poetic spirit that runs deep in this city.

## The feel of the place

### Dali's Scenery

Dali has beautiful scenery and a pleasant climate, with Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake and a romantic atmosphere. Resort hotels offer complete facilities, making them an excellent choice for holidays, family trips, business meetings and investment visits.

### One Rain Brings Autumn

Temperatures drop quickly in July and August. Locals say 'one rain brings autumn', so even if you visit in summer, pack long sleeves and long trousers. Most places in Dali do not have air conditioning.

### Dali City and Dali Old Town

For historical reasons, the relationship between Dali City and Dali Old Town is the most commonly confused. Dali City is the capital of Dali Prefecture, also known as Xiaguan. Dali Old Town is the ancient capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom, more than 30 kilometres from the city centre. When people talk about visiting Dali, they usually mean Dali Old Town.

### Dali Braids

On arrival in Dali, women can visit a small hair salon and have local stylists braid their hair. Very fine braids paired with multicoloured wool thread will give you a distinctive 'Dali look'.

### Bai Local Deity Worship

Most residents of Dali are Bai. Alongside Buddhism and Taoism, each village worships its own guardian deity, known as a 'benzhu'. A benzhu may be an animal. Never harm such an animal, and try not to carry food associated with a benzhu.

### Preparation and Advice

### Language

Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, or Dali Prefecture, is home to people who mostly use local dialects, but Mandarin is widely understood throughout the region.

### Climate and Travel Seasons

Average annual temperatures range from 12.2 to 18.9℃. The lack of distinct seasons is a feature of Dali's climate, and the rainy season is concentrated from May to October. People say 'Dali's March is full of beauty', and spring is the ideal time to visit, as many Bai festivals and fairs take place around the third lunar month.


## Getting there & around

### Getting There

As a popular tourist city, Dali has convenient transport links, with an airport and railway station. If you want to enjoy the scenery along the way, driving or taking a long-distance bus is also a good choice.

### Long-Distance Bus Terminals

1. Buses from Kunming to Dali terminate at Xiaguan (a newer urban district), not Dali Old Town. From Xiaguan bus station, take bus No. 4 or No. 8 directly to Dali Old Town (about 13 km from Xiaguan). The fare is ¥2 and the journey takes around 30 minutes.

2. Many taxi drivers near Dali Railway Station will offer to take you to Dali for ¥3. This actually means Xiaguan, not Dali Old Town. A taxi from Xiaguan to the Old Town costs about ¥40.

- tip: Best season to visit: 'Dali's March is full of beauty', so spring is the most suitable time to go. Most Bai festivals take place in March and April, when you can experience the rich ethnic culture at its best.

### Air

Dali Airport is located on the southeast shore of Erhai Lake, 13 km from Dali City. It has flights to and from Kunming and Xishuangbanna, as well as flights to Guangzhou, Beijing and Chengdu. A taxi from the airport to Dali Old Town costs about ¥90.

### Rail

### Road

Xiaguan is Dali's key transport hub. Its main long-distance bus stations include the North Passenger Station and the Bus Station (main station).

### Long-Distance Bus Stations and Departure Directions

### Getting Around

### Buses

Dali has more than ten urban bus routes. Buses No. 4 and No. 8 run directly from Xiaguan to Dali Old Town, taking about 30 minutes, with a fare of ¥2.

### Taxis

Standard taxis charge a flagfall of ¥8 during the day and ¥10 at night. From Dali Railway Station to Dali Old Town, a taxi costs about ¥40–50.

- **CAAC Ticket Office** — 
- **Dali Railway Station** —  (Weishan Road and Dianyuan Road, Dali City, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture)
- **North Passenger Station** —  (30 Yuhua Road)
- **Bus Station (East Station)** —  (372 Weishan Road)
- **Express Passenger Station** —  (1 South Huancheng Road)

## Eat & drink

When it comes to Dali, Sanchacha (Three-Course Tea) and Eryuan rushan (milk fans) are essential to mention.

### Local Specialties

- **Sand-Pot Fish** — One of Dali's signature local dishes, made by slow-simmering more than ten fresh ingredients, including tender chicken slices and winter mushrooms, with gongyu or carp from Erhai Lake. Visitors can try this dish on boat trips and in major restaurants throughout Dali.
- **Dengchuan Rushan (Milk Fans)** — Dali is the birthplace of rushan. Among the 'eighteen oddities of Yunnan' is 'milk made into fans for sale', which refers to rushan. Rushan is a cheese, creamy white and shaped like a folding fan, hence the name. It is highly nutritious and has a rich, mellow flavour. It is a premium dish that the Bai people serve to guests. Dengchuan rushan can be eaten raw or fried in oil, and it can be served as soon as it is shaped or kept for a long time. It travels well and is sold far and wide, and it is popular in some Southeast Asian countries.
- **Bai Erkuai (Rice Cakes)** — A Yunnan specialty made from high-quality rice, usually cut into blocks, strips or slices. It can be braised, boiled, stir-fried, stewed, steamed or deep-fried, with different flavours each time, and it never gets tiresome to eat.
- **Xizhou Baba (Flatbread)** — Also called posu baba, this is a wheat flatbread with an excellent colour, aroma and taste. It is a popular snack in Dali City, and the traditional Bai-style baba from Xizhou is the most famous.
- **Three-Course Tea** — Three-course tea is the finest expression of Bai tea culture, embodying the philosophy of life that 'the first cup is bitter, the second sweet, and the third leaves a lingering aftertaste'. Tea is often accompanied by folk songs and dances, which are a pleasure to watch. Authentic three-course tea can be enjoyed at the Wenxian Building in Dali Old Town, the Nanzhao Culture City in Dali, and the Yan Family Compound in Xizhou, where ethnic song and dance performances are also staged.
- **Meizijing Restaurant** — A long-established restaurant in Dali with a thriving business. It is set in an elegant Bai courtyard with a two-hall layout and a screen wall, and features ancient plum trees and an old well. The restaurant is famous for its plum cuisine, including black plum fish, carved plum pork and black plum radish. Its homemade plum wine is also distinctive. It is ideal for romantic dinners or gatherings with family and friends. (130 Renmin Road, Dali Town, Dali City, 0872-2671578)
- **Duan Gongzi Restaurant** — A themed restaurant inspired by The Legend of the Condor Heroes' Tianlong Babu series. The dining room has an otherworldly feel, staff wear martial-arts style costumes, the music is full of heroic spirit, and even the menu looks like a martial arts manual. If you are not sure what to order, choose a set meal, which covers most of the signature dishes. (Intersection of Renmin Road and Yeyu Road, Dali City, 18213322996)

## Shopping

Marble and tie-dye are the most representative souvenirs and can be found everywhere in Dali.

- **Zhaoji Plum Shop** — Crispy plums, carved plums and plum wine are Dali specialties. Zhaoji Plum Wine is a long-established shop in Dali Old Town. It sells many varieties of plums, and those who have tried them praise them highly. The preserved fruit is also tasty, though the range is smaller. (282 Fuxing Road, Dali Old Town, 0872-2661896)
- **Zhoucheng Village Tie-Dye** — Tie-dyeing is a traditional handcraft of folk dyeing and printing popular among the ethnic minorities of Yunnan, with a long history. Almost every household in Zhoucheng runs a small workshop making batik or tie-dye. The local seal carving is also excellent.

## Nightlife

At nightfall, the Old Town is decorated with modern lighting that turns it into a glowing castle, including the towering Three Pagodas in the distance. Yet what people miss most is the quiet the Old Town once had, when apart from the lights of Foreigners' Street, everything was still. Today the liveliest places at night are Foreigners' Street, and the most relaxing option is to find a bar with a distinctive style and order a glass of Dali beer.

- **Foreigners' Street** — Located in Dali Old Town, this east-west street is paved with bluestone slabs. At night the bars open and the street becomes especially lively, with Tangchao Bar the most famous of them. Along the street are Chinese and Western restaurants, jewellery shops, antique shops, tie-dye shops and galleries, selling Bai snacks and souvenirs. You can eat and browse your way along, although prices are on the high side.
- **Tangchao Bar** — A well-known bar that is easy to find simply by following the sound of music.
- **Bad Monkey Bar** — A bar in Dali Old Town. Go in the evening, when it fills up with plenty of night owls.

## Where to stay

Outside peak tourist season, accommodation in Dali is generally cheap. Guesthouses are different from hotels and restaurants: they are inexpensive and give you a sense of being at home.

- **Dali Yu'an Garden Boutique Inn** — A Bai-style family courtyard with a large garden. Green bamboo, a clear pond, and bamboo pavilions with elegant, layered upper floors. The walls and curtains of the rooms are hung with hand-printed blue-and-white cloth, giving a cosy and romantic atmosphere. (3 Sanyue Street, Dali Old Town, 17787207339)
- **Hetai Garden Inn** — A three-storey small building with simple, very clean rooms. It offers good value for money. (120 Guangwu Road, Dali Old Town, 0872-2671193)

## Things to see

- **Dali Ancient Town** (★★★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours Open all day; Time needed 3+ hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/dali-ancient-town
- **Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple Cultural Tourism Area** (★★★): Admission ¥75; Opening hours 8：00—17：30; Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/three-pagodas-of-chongsheng-temple-cultural-tourism-area
- **Cangshan–Erhai National Nature Reserve** (★★★★★): Admission There are two cable cars up Cangshan Mountain, and cruises on Erhai Lake:
1. Xima Pool Cable Car round trip ¥335 (includes admission to the Film and Television City and the Geological Park)
2. Gantong Cable Car one way ¥115 (Cangshan admission + cable car). It is recommended to ride up and hike down, as the descent offers views of the Tianlong Babu Film and Television City, Dali Ancient Town and Erhai Lake
3. Erhai Lake cruise ¥142; Opening hours Open all day (opening hours of individual attractions vary); Time needed 1 day — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/cangshan-erhai-national-nature-reserve
- **Tianlong Babu Film and Television City** (★★★★): Admission ¥40; Opening hours 8：00—17：30; Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/tianlong-babu-film-and-television-city
- **Haishe Park** (★★★): Admission Free (reservation required); Opening hours Open all day (all year 2026, reservation required); Time needed 20-45 minutes — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/haishe-park
- **Shuanglang Ancient Town** (★★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours Open all day (all year 2026); Time needed 1–2 days — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/shuanglang-ancient-town
- **Yuji Island** (★★★★): Admission ¥10; Opening hours 8：00—20：00; Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/yuji-island
- **Nanzhao Fengqing Island** (★★★★): Admission ¥50; Opening hours 08:00-18:30 (no entry after 17:30); Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/nanzhao-fengqing-island
- **Gantong Temple** (★★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours 8：30—16：00; Time needed 3+ hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/gantong-temple
- **Langqiao Covered Bridge** (★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours 8：00—24：00; Time needed 20-45 minutes — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/langqiao-covered-bridge
- **Xiao Putuo Island** (★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours 9：00—18：00; Time needed 20-45 minutes — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/xiao-putuo-island
- **Xizhou Ancient Town** (★★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours Open all day (all year 2026); Time needed 4–5 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/xizhou-ancient-town
- **Zhoucheng Village** (★★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours Open all day (all year 2026); Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/zhoucheng-village
- **Butterfly Spring** (★★★★): Admission ¥40; Opening hours 08:30-18:00 (all year 2026); Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/butterfly-spring

## Day trips & beyond

- **Wuliangshan Cherry Blossom Valley** (★★★): Admission ¥50; Opening hours 08:00-19:00 (all year 2026); Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/wuliangshan-cherry-blossom-valley
- **Shibaoshan Scenic Area** (★★★★): Admission ¥45; Opening hours 8：00—17：30; Time needed 3+ hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/shibaoshan-scenic-area
- **Nuodeng Ancient Village** (★★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours Open all day (all year 2026); Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/nuodeng-ancient-village
- **Shaxi Ancient Town** (★★★★): Admission ¥45; Opening hours Open all day (all year 2026); Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/shaxi-ancient-town
- **Weishan Ancient City** (★★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours All day; Time needed 3–4 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/weishan-ancient-city
- **Jizushan Scenic Area** (★★★): Admission ¥55; Opening hours 8：00—18：00; Time needed 1 day — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/jizushan-scenic-area

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Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 208–229. Prices, hours and transport details are as printed in the August 2024 edition and may have changed. Always confirm with the venue before you travel.