# Pingyao travel guide (平遥) Shanxi Province · North China, China · 19 places Canonical: https://cnatrip.com/en/destinations/shanxi/pingyao ## Quick itinerary - **Day 1:** Pingyao Ancient City (Ancient City Wall → Rishengchang Draft Bank → Ming and Qing Street → Yonglonghao → Escort Agency Museum → Gushi Tower → Ancient County Yamen → City God Temple → Grand Opera House → Confucius Temple → Qingxu Temple → North China's No. 1 Escort Agency) ## The feel of the place - **Traditional Residences:** Pingyao's old town still has 3,797 traditional courtyard houses, most of which are inhabited. With its intact ancient city walls and the traditional residences where people still live, Pingyao remains a living ancient city. - **Old Draft Banks:** Pingyao was home to China's earliest financial institutions: the draft banks (piaohao). In their heyday, the eight great Pingyao draft banks, led by Rishengchang, had branches in 45 cities across China and even maintained remittance business with San Francisco and New York. It was these financial magnates of the time who shaped today's Pingyao, and the exquisite mansions that still stand there remain a major force in the town's economy. ## The feel of the place ### Pingyao's Three Treasures Pingyao's three treasures are lacquerware, beef and Changshan yam. ### Preparation and Information ### Language As a highly commercialised tourist destination with a prosperous past, communicating in Pingyao should not pose much of a problem. ### Climate and Travel Season Pingyao has distinct seasons, with a large temperature difference between winter and summer. January is the coldest month, at around -7°C; July is the hottest, at around 28°C, with an extreme high of 39°C. The annual average temperature is around 10°C, and summer has the most rainfall. The best seasons to visit Pingyao are summer and autumn. ### Pingyao's Draft Banks Draft banks (piaohao) were money-changing houses run by Shanxi merchants in former times, focused mainly on remittance business, and they reached their peak in the late Qing dynasty. Draft bank merchants are one of Pingyao's defining features. Records show that Pingyao once had dozens of draft banks; the 22 most famous were: Rishengchang, Weitaihou, Weifenghou, Weishengchang, Xintaihou, Tianchengheng, Rixinzhong, Xiehexin, Xietongqing, Baichuantong, Qianshengheng, Qianjisheng, Weichanghou, Qideichang, Yunfengtai, Songshengchang, Xianghezhen, Yishengchang, Huiyuanyong, Yongtaiqing, Yongtaiyu and Baofenglong. ### Pingyao International Photography Festival Since 2001, Pingyao has held an International Photography Festival every year in mid-to-late September, which has become a major event in China's photography world. Visitors at this time can see photography exhibitions and take part in many celebratory activities. ### Pingyao International Film Festival Every October, Pingyao holds the Pingyao International Film Festival, founded by director Jia Zhangke. It is an absolute carnival for film lovers. ### Pingyao Taxi Fares Pingyao taxis have a flag-fall of ¥6 for the first 1.5 km, then ¥1.8 per km. ### Protection Against Sand Shanxi is cold, dry and windy with plenty of sand. When visiting Pingyao, it's best to bring sunglasses and a hat for protection against wind and sand. ## Getting there & around ### Getting In and Out Getting to and from Pingyao relies mainly on rail and road, and transport is convenient. ### Rail The Tongpu Railway runs north-south through Pingyao, reaching north to Taiyuan and Shijiazhuang and south to Linfen and Yuncheng. Pingyao has two railway stations: Pingyao Station and Pingyao Ancient City Station. Pingyao Ancient City Station is a high-speed rail station, while Pingyao Station mainly serves ordinary fast trains. Visitors departing from Beijing, Lanzhou, Chongqing, Xi'an, Jinan and other cities can take high-speed and EMU trains that run directly to Ancient City Station. The journey from Beijing to Pingyao takes about 4 hours. From Pingyao Ancient City Station to the old town, take bus route 108; the fare is ¥1 and the journey takes about 40 minutes. From Pingyao Station, the old town is about 2 km away and can be reached on foot. ### Road Pingyao and Taiyuan are connected by road. Buses from Jiannan Bus Station in Taiyuan take only about 2 hours, with a fare of about ¥28. ### Local Transport Pingyao's old town is not large, and its streets are narrow and densely populated, so you generally do not need a vehicle to tour it; walking is sufficient. The town also has rickshaws and electric carts operated specifically for visitors. - **Pingyao Bus Station** — (East side of the railway station, 0354-5690011) ## Eat & drink Food in Pingyao centres on noodles. Shanxi is said to have over 300 kinds of noodles, though for most people the differences are mainly in shape. Like most of Shanxi, Pingyao locals typically eat millet porridge, steamed buns and baked flatbreads in the morning and evening. At midday, the choice is all kinds of noodle dishes, such as dalu noodles (noodles with braised toppings), zhajiang noodles (noodles with fried soybean paste sauce) and cuo'er (hand-pinched dough flakes). The toppings are plentiful and the flavours are refreshing. ### Local Snacks and Snack Streets ### Drink Purified Water Pingyao's tap water tastes slightly salty and may cause mild discomfort when drunk. It is advisable to buy purified water instead. ### Try the Local Specialities The Ming-Qing Street in the old town has many restaurants where you can sample Pingyao's local specialities. ### Tips for Eating in Pingyao 1. When having breakfast here, always ask the price beforehand, or you will likely be overcharged. The difference may only be a few yuan, but it will spoil your mood. 2. Meals in Pingyao usually mean noodles. If you really want rice, not every restaurant will have it, and even where it is available, the price is surprisingly high: ¥3 for a small bowl and ¥5 for a large bowl. ### Reverse-Pedalling Tricycles Reverse-pedalling tricycles are a familiar sight in Pingyao. Renting one in the evening and wandering freely around the city is especially enjoyable. ### Bargaining in Pingyao Almost everything here is negotiable, including entrance tickets (especially for smaller sights), and accommodation, meals and shopping even more so. Just don't haggle too aggressively, or it may cause hassle. - **Pingyao Beef** — A famous Pingyao speciality: a uniquely processed braised beef that is served in almost every restaurant in Pingyao and is also sold at street stalls. Pingyao beef has a mild flavour and colour, and a tender, smooth texture. If you want to take some home, vacuum-packed versions are available, and the Guanyun brand is considered the best quality. - **Dougan (Dried Tofu)** — Pingyao dried tofu is delicious, so be sure to give it a try. - **Wantuo (Bowl-Served Snack)** — A traditional local snack of Pingyao County and an excellent accompaniment to drinks, with a strong regional character. Wantuo was created in the early Guangxu reign of the Qing dynasty by Master Dong Xuan, a renowned chef from Nanbao in the south of Pingyao County, and has a history of over 100 years. - **Cao Family Smoked Pork Knuckle** — A traditional delicacy that rivals Pingyao beef in fame. It was once selected for the imperial court, where it won the praise of Empress Dowager Cixi, who was known for her discerning palate. - **Long Mountain Yam** — In Pingyao, known as the "Home of the Long Mountain Yam", there are many ways to cook it, such as stir-frying and deep-frying. The most distinctive are honey-glazed Long Mountain Yam and medicinal-herb Long Mountain Yam. - **Zuipingyao Restaurant · Dreaming of the Ancient City** — A highly recommended snack and noodle restaurant that offers five-star quality at very affordable prices. Guoyourou (stir-fried pork), kaolaolao, Long Mountain Yam, wantuo, knife-cut noodles and many other Shanxi specialities are all available here. (No. 16 Nanjie Street, Pingyao Ancient City, 13293548000) ## Nightlife The most relaxing night life in the old town is to pick up a packet of beef from a street stall, buy a pot of Changshengyuan yellow rice wine, warm it in a teapot, and sit cross-legged on the heated kang (brick bed) of a traditional residence, with a small low table in front of you. Drinking wine and eating beef there, you may feel like a hero from Water Margin. It may seem a little affected, but it is a delightful way to spend a night in the ancient town. ## Shopping The old town has boosted tourism, and it has also boosted the circulation of antiques and handicrafts. Although it can be hard to tell whether antiques are genuine, hunting for antiques and buying crafts remains one of the highlights of a visit to Pingyao. ### Recommended Shopping - **Antiques on Ming-Qing Street** — Many shops on Ming-Qing Street sell antiques, and it is hard to tell which are genuine. There are usually more people looking than buying. If you are serious about buying, you will need to bargain hard, but don't push the price down so far that the low figure scares you off. Here, a small antique vanity box can be priced at over ¥1,000. - **Tuiguang Lacquerware** — A famous Pingyao handicraft with fine workmanship that gleams brilliantly from a distance. However, it is made on machine production lines, so it lacks the artistic creativity and rustic charm of traditional handmade work. - **Insoles on West Street** — About 50 metres north of the western exit of Ming-Qing Street, there is an unassuming little shop with beautiful insoles displayed at the entrance as a marker. The insoles, with sky-blue, pink or light-green backgrounds, are embroidered with rose-red, sapphire-blue and parrot-green patterns. They cost about ¥20 a pair, and you can bargain. - **Old Wooden Furniture** — Shanxi's Ming and Qing furniture has a distinct style, with simple, rustic forms, generous use of materials and frequent lacquer painting. It offers a different charm from the finely carved hardwood furniture of Jiangnan. If you are lucky, you may find some on Ming-Qing Street. - **Paper Cuts** — Pingyao County is renowned for its paper cuts. The Ancient City Paper Cutting shop at No. 56 Zhengfu Street (where you can watch the process being made) and the Jianyiyuan on West Street of Pingyao are good places to buy them. - **Shage Xiren (Gauze-Pavilion Puppets)** — Based on traditional opera, each small pavilion stages a single play, presenting the joys, sorrows, loves and hatreds of its characters on a miniature stage. Worth a look. ## Where to stay As a popular tourist city, Pingyao has many hotels for visitors to stay in. The most distinctive option is to stay in one of the traditional old residences, with their square courtyards, small central patios, wooden lintels and floors…… ### Leave Early in the Morning These residences are open to visitors during the day, so you will usually need to check out by around 9:00 a.m. the next morning. ### Where to Buy Daily Necessities If you need daily necessities, there are two supermarkets in front of the railway station with moderate prices. ### Accommodation Outside the Old Town There are many hotels and guesthouses outside the old town, and prices are usually lower than for comparable places inside the walls. - **Family Guesthouses** — These are old residences converted into guesthouses, usually run privately in ancestral homes. Prices are negotiable, and standard rooms are around ¥100. You may still see faded paintings on the walls from two or three hundred years ago, and staying there feels like a dream. The bedding is usually the owners' own. Often there is no private bathroom; there is a chamber pot in the corner, otherwise you will need to use the public toilet outside the room. Showers are also only available in the public bathhouse. - **Tianyuankui Inn** — The hotel is not large but has plenty of old-world charm, making it a good place to stay. Bicycles can be rented at the inn for ¥10 a day. (No. 73 Nanjie Street, Ancient City, 0354-5680069) - **Jinjing Tower Inn** — The facilities here are relatively new and very clean. (No. 29 Nanjie Street, Old Town, 0354-5683751) - **Pingyao Yide Inn** — Said to have been developed from the former residence of the Wang family, a prominent banking dynasty that ran draft banks (piaohao), this is a classic two-courtyard siheyuan with authentic Ming and Qing architecture. The exterior looks worn, but the interior is very clean, and the grandeur of the past is still easy to sense. Staying here gives you the illusion of having stepped back in time. (16 Shaxiang Street, 0354-5686507) ## Things to see - **Pingyao Ancient City Wall** (★★★★★): Admission The ancient town is open free of charge; a combined ticket for the sights costs ¥125.; Opening hours 8:00–18:00 (April 1–October 7); 8:00–17:30 (October 8–March 31 of the following year); Time needed 2–4 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/pingyao-ancient-city-wall - **Rishengchang Draft Bank** (★★★★★): Admission Included in the Pingyao Ancient Town combined ticket; Opening hours 2026.01.01-2026.12.31 08:00-18:30; Time needed 1–1.5 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/rishengchang-draft-bank - **China Escort Agency Museum** (★★★): Admission Included in the Pingyao Ancient Town combined ticket; Opening hours 8：00—18：00; Time needed 0.5–1 hour — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/china-escort-agency-museum - **Pingyao County Government Office** (★★★★): Admission Included in the Pingyao Ancient City combo ticket; Opening hours 2026.10.10-2027.03.31 08:00-17:30; Time needed 1 hour — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/pingyao-county-government-office - **City God Temple** (★★★★): Admission Included in the Pingyao Ancient City combo ticket; Opening hours 2026.01.01-2026.12.31 08:00-18:30; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/city-god-temple - **Qingxu Temple** (★★★★): Admission Included in the Pingyao Ancient City combo ticket; Opening hours 2026.10.10-2027.04.30 08:00-17:30; Time needed 30 minutes — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/qingxu-temple - **Shuanglin Temple** (★★★★★): Admission ¥33; Opening hours 8:00–18:00 (1 April–8 October); 8:00–17:30 (9 October–31 March of the following year); Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/shuanglin-temple - **Zhenguo Temple** (★★★): Admission ¥23; Opening hours 8:00–18:00 (1 April–8 October); 8:00–17:30 (9 October–31 March of the following year); Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/zhenguo-temple ## Day trips & beyond - **Wang Family Compound** (★★★★★): Admission ¥55; Opening hours 2026.10.17-2027.03.31 08:00-17:30; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/wang-family-compound - **Qiao Family Compound** (★★★★): Admission ¥115; Opening hours 8：30—17：30; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/qiao-family-compound - **Cao Family Compound (Sanduo Hall)** (★★★★): Admission ¥40; Opening hours 2026.10.17-2027.03.31 08:00-17:30; Time needed 1 hour — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/cao-family-compound-sanduo-hall - **Chang Family Manor** (★★★★★): Admission ¥80; Opening hours 8：30—17：30; Time needed 2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/chang-family-manor - **Qu Family Compound** (★★★★): Admission ¥40; Opening hours 8：30—18：30; Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/qu-family-compound - **Kong Xiangxi Residence** (★★★★): Admission ¥45; Opening hours 8：00—17：30; Time needed 2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/kong-xiangxi-residence - **Zhangbi Ancient Fortress** (★★★★): Admission ¥75; Opening hours 8：00—17：00; Time needed 2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/zhangbi-ancient-fortress - **Yuci Old Town** (★★★★): Admission ¥78; Opening hours 8：00—17：30; Time needed 3–4 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/yuci-old-town - **Shi Family Compound** (★★★): Admission From ¥20; Opening hours 2026.01.01-2026.12.31 09:00-18:00; Time needed 1 day — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/shi-family-compound - **Hougou Ancient Village** (★★★): Admission ¥40; Opening hours 2026.01.01-2026.12.31 08:00-19:00; Time needed 2–4 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/hougou-ancient-village - **Mianshan Mountain** (★★★★): Admission ¥160 (admission + shuttle ticket); Opening hours 8:00–19:00 (peak season) 8:00–17:00 (off-season); Time needed 1 day — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/mianshan-mountain --- Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 1801–1823. Prices, hours and transport details are as printed in the August 2024 edition and may have changed. Always confirm with the venue before you travel.