# Xining travel guide (西宁) Qinghai Province · Northwest, China · 16 places Canonical: https://cnatrip.com/en/destinations/qinghai/xining ## Quick itinerary - **Day 1:** Tibetan Medicine Culture Museum → Beichan Temple → Dongguan Grand Mosque → Xiaoxin Street (dinner) - **Day 2:** Qinghai Highland Wildlife Park → Ta'er Monastery (Kumbum) → Huangyuan County (overnight) - **Day 3:** Zanpu Linka → Danggar Ancient Town → Riyue Mountain → Daotang River (overnight) - **Day 4:** Daotang River → Qinghai Lake (overnight in Heima River Township, watch the sunrise over Qinghai Lake) - **Day 5:** Qinghai Lake → Chaka Salt Lake → Emerald Lake → Da Qaidam (on the border between Qinghai and Gansu; you can leave Qinghai directly and enter Gansu to continue sightseeing) ## The feel of the place - **Scorching Sun:** Xining's sunlight pierces through the clouds and falls straight onto your skin. Without sunscreen beforehand, the searing sensation is hard to escape, and your eyes ache. But the sky is such a deep blue that you feel you could melt into it, which makes up for the blazing sun along the way. Xining is already very close to Tibet, so coming here is a rehearsal for entering Tibet. - **Grilled Lamb and Flatbread:** Stand on a Xining street and the aroma of grilled lamb drifts over, along with the flatbread (mo) typical of Northwest China. Especially at the night market, sitting under the lights around a low little table with grilled lamb and flatbread in hand, every delicacy is before you. A traveller who leaves Xining will carry that taste on their tongue, and wherever they go, their memory of grilled lamb will always belong to Xining. - **Lamb Offal Soup:** The most common snack at Xining's street stalls is lamb offal soup. It is genuinely made from lamb offal. ## The feel of the place ### Xining Xining is a relatively safe city. As long as you avoid particularly remote places at night, you will generally be fine. Walking through eastern Xining, around 90% of the people you pass are Muslims, which you can tell from the small white caps and colourful headscarves. Female travellers should try to understand the different roles within Muslim families. In the Dongguan Great Mosque, do not touch religious objects, and wear long sleeves and trousers when entering the main prayer hall. ### Preparation and Enquiries ### Climate and Best Travel Season The golden season for visiting Xining is June to September, when the average daily temperature is only about 17°C. The highest point in Xining is 4,877 m, and the city centre sits at 2,261 m. Low air pressure, long hours of sunshine and strong solar radiation are the climate features here, so sun protection is essential on any trip. The difference between day and night temperatures is also large, with summer nights averaging no more than 10°C, so keep warm too. - tip: 1. Essentials: sunglasses, sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15, moisturiser and lip balm, which are especially important for women's luggage. 2. Climate: Xining's air is dry, so eat plenty of vegetables and fruit, and go easy on lamb. 3. Vitamin supplements: Xining has a fairly good supply of vegetables and fruit at reasonable prices, but you may also bring synthetic vitamin tablets such as Jinshi'erkang or Centrum. 4. Rhodiola: helps prevent altitude sickness. The following large pharmacy is reliable: Qinghai Provincial Pharmaceutical Company [diagonally opposite Xining Mansion; from the railway station, take a bus to Xining Mansion (bus stop)]. ### Festivals ## Getting there & around ### Getting In and Out Xining has long been known as the "Gateway to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau". It now has a transport network combining air, rail and road. Xining is an essential transit point and hub for travel within and beyond the province. - tip: 1. Staying in a Muslim home: Do not enter the kitchen without permission. Muslim kitchens generally do not welcome non-Muslim visitors, and you should not enter the hosts' rooms, especially the hostess's. 2. Objects: Do not touch religious objects. When eating in a Muslim household, follow halal standards. 3. Prayer: Mosques generally do not welcome non-Muslim visitors during prayer times. Muslim prayer is genuinely worth seeing, but you should only visit and take photos with permission. The best approach is to have a Muslim companion take you in, and they can arrange for you to watch from one side. - tip: Headscarves Women in all kinds of headscarves hurry through the streets of Xining: white, black, green, and some in floral prints. The colours signal a Muslim woman's age, with black for the eldest and white for the youngest. White scarves are rarer now, though, as young women have switched to brighter shades such as pink and blue. - tip: Long-Distance Bus 1. Tickets generally go on sale one day in advance. 2. Xining's bus stations close early in the evening, so go early to check schedules or buy tickets. 3. Buses from Xining to other destinations run frequently, but departure times are not fixed. - tip: Taxi Always agree on your destination before getting in. Xining's city centre is compact. The flag-fall fare is usually ¥6, and if you bargain well, ¥5 can take you quite far. ### Air Caojiabu International Airport lies about 29 km east of central Xining and is the airport closest to Qinghai Lake. It currently offers direct flights to many cities, including Beijing, Xi'an, Shanghai, Chengdu, Guangzhou, Kunming, Shenzhen and Urumqi. Airport shuttle buses run to central Xining, terminating at the Bayi Road Bus Station in the city centre. The fare is ¥21. ### Rail Xining currently has high-speed train services to Lanzhou, Menyuan, Zhangye, Jiayuguan and even Urumqi. Regular trains run east to major cities such as Shanghai and Beijing, and west direct to Lhasa. All trains to and from other cities depart from and stop at Xining Railway Station. ### Road ### Long-Distance Bus Stations and Destinations ### City Transport Xining has dozens of bus routes connecting the city and its suburbs. Long-distance buses also run to counties such as Huangzhong, Huangyuan and Datong, which is convenient for visitors. ### Tips 1. Daybreak: this is the best time to photograph the Dongguan Mosque. Besides the grand architecture, you may catch worshippers sweeping the mosque grounds. 2. Prayer: the mosque can normally hold 3,000 worshippers and up to 10,000 at peak times, a truly spectacular sight. 3. Main hall: generally closed to the public; entry requires the imam's permission. Photography is not allowed inside the main hall. 4. Significance: the mosque is also the education centre for Islam in Northwest China and home to the region's highest institution for the study of Islamic scripture. - tip: 1. Relics of the Song and Yuan dynasties: the temple retains murals and caisson ceilings that, stylistically, date from the late Tang and the Song and Yuan periods. 2. Ningshou Pagoda: the five-tiered, close-eaved brick pagoda on the summit of Beishan was built in the Qing dynasty. - **Caojiabu International Airport** — - **Bayi Road Airport Office** — (No. 26, Beida Street, 0971-8189075) - **Xining Passenger Transport Centre** — - **Xining Nanchuan West Road Bus Station** — - **Xining Bayi Road Bus Station** — - **Xining Xinning Road Bus Station** — ## Eat & drink The Xining region offers a rich variety of main dishes and snacks. Xining's snacks are famous far and wide. Remember these names: Yin Liangfen, Yu Niangpi, Kang Zhurou, Li Yangtou, Xin Suancao and Song Jingdui. The first character in each name is a surname, and it is also the signature of that snack family. - tip: Snacks Chenggui Lamb Neck Hand-Grab Specialty Shop sits on the north side of the crossroads of Gonghe Road and Dongguan Street. Its lamb neck is a distinctive local dish. Open from 17:00 until about 22:00, when it usually sells out. It also serves gamianpian, lazi and fried potatoes. Prices are reasonable, service is attentive, and it is very popular. - tip: Alcohol Precautions 1. When drinking locally, respect local customs. 2. Xining's qingke (highland barley) liquor goes to your head easily. As a guide, drink no more than two-thirds of your usual baijiu quantity, and avoid overindulging. 3. Xining sits at over 2,000 metres above sea level. Apart from avoiding strenuous exercise, limit smoking and drinking. - tip: Tea In Xining, try boiled tea (aocha), made mainly from black tea simmered with salt, Sichuan pepper, tsaoko (grass cardamom) and ginger. The tea is strong and dark; it is said to cut the greasiness of rich food and clear the head. - tip: Da Xinjie and Xiao Xinjie Da Xinjie (Big New Street) and Xiao Xinjie (Small New Street) are two intersecting lanes in Chengzhong District. Da Xinjie runs north to south and Xiao Xinjie east to west. The night market on Da Xinjie focuses on clothing but also has plenty of snacks, while Xiao Xinjie is lined with snack stalls giving off fragrant aromas. ### Specialty Food Streets ### Local Snacks - **Shuijing Lane** — Known as a 'snack paradise', Shuijing Lane serves authentic hand-grabbed mutton, grilled lamb ribs, lamb intestines and kebabs. - **Da Xinjie** — Opening hours are generally 17:00–24:00. Take Bus 1 from the railway station to Da Shizi stop, then walk 100 metres north from Yinma Street. A long row of street stalls stretches for hundreds of metres and is always busy. Here you can taste Xining's local flavours as well as snacks from across China. - **Mazhong Food House** — Located on Mojia Street, another 'snack paradise', Mazhong Food House is the first place any Xining local will recommend. Take Bus 1 and get off at Da Shizi. Its Yu niangpi (wheat-gluten sheet noodles) at ¥8 a bowl is unforgettable. The clay-pot dishes are also excellent, and there is a full range of fried snacks, including stir-fried liangfen. Qingzhen Yixin Lamb Hand-Grab Restaurant (Huayuan North Street branch): one of the best halal restaurants in town, and very well known. Its braised lamb is essentially hand-grabbed mutton, simmered in a large pot and dipped in small condiment bowls. It has no gamey taste and is very tender, so even people who don't usually like lamb tend to fall for it. (No. 5, Baiyu Lane, Huaguang Garden North Street, Chengzhong District, 0971-8179336) - **Qingzhen Yogurt** — Anyone who has visited Xining, especially women, remembers the yogurt here. One spoonful feels like scooping into a bowl of steamed egg custard; it tastes tangy and sweet and is silky and thick. After this, supermarket yogurt tastes like paste. The stall at the entrance to Ximen Small Park sells a bowl for ¥2, arguably the best yogurt you will ever drink. There is also an unassuming stall near the entrance to Yiwu Commercial City whose flavour is very good. - **Leba** — A skewer unique to Xining. Lamb ribs are first simmered until half-cooked, then brushed with sauce and grilled over charcoal. This is essentially the Turkish kebab method, and the word 'leba' (kebab) also derives from Turkish. - **Hand-Grabbed Mutton** — Eaten by holding a knife in one hand to cut the meat and picking up the pieces with the other hand. The method is very simple: boil fresh mutton in water, then add salt or dip it in salt before eating. Cooked this way, the mutton is tender without being mushy, with a rich, savoury flavour. Originally a simple way for herders to eat while on the move, it has become one of the flavourful foods with distinctive local and ethnic character. - **Sand Pot (Shaguo)** — A small hotpot built mainly on beef, mutton, vegetables, tofu and glass noodles, served with a bowl of rice and generously portioned. Not only is the taste good, it is also a great place to save money on dinner. It is usually sold after nightfall from food stalls around Xining Mansion. ## Nightlife Daxin Street is open from 17:00 to 24:00. Even strolling along this street, which is not especially busy, you can feel the liveliness of Xining's nights. ## Shopping Some people say there are three things you must not leave Xining without buying. The first is “Snow Mountain” five-spice beef jerky, made from fresh yak meat from the Qinghai plateau, with a distinctive flavour. The others are yak-wool sweaters and qingke barley liquor. Of course, genuine products bought from proper shopping centres are best. Xining also has cordyceps liquor and handicrafts worth buying, such as Tibetan knives and silverware. ## Where to stay Luxury hotels in Xining are not very expensive, so for many visitors from big cities, it is entirely possible to indulge a little. - tip: Accommodation Tips 1. A basic single room at a guesthouse in Xining generally costs about ¥60. 2. Hotels generally do not have air conditioning, so bring a light layer for summer evenings. Hotels provide quilts and blankets. 3. Xining's tap water is very cold, so avoid taking cold showers. - tip: Haihu New District Centre A one-stop complex combining dining, plaza shopping and nightlife, with everything you could need. The Qinghai Conghong Nuosang Tibetan Cultural Experience Space sells authentic specialty foods from across Qinghai. ### Shopping Shangyexiang Market, Gucheng Tai Market and Ximenkou Dongtian Shopping City are all good places to shop. For local specialties, Hualian Supermarket carries most items, and the quality is relatively reliable. - **Muslim Mansion** — A distinctive three-star hotel in Xining. All staff wear traditional Muslim dress, and the hotel is safe, clean and elegantly designed. Each room has three small booklets on the table promoting Islamic teachings, which makes for an interesting read. (No. 9 Qiyi Road, Chengdong District, Xining City, 0971-8164107) ## Things to see - **Dongguan Grand Mosque** (★★★★): Admission No admission fee; free guided tours available; Opening hours Monday to Thursday and Saturday to Sunday 7:00–20:00. Friday (Jumu'ah, the weekly congregational prayer day): no visits before 14:30.; Time needed 1 hour — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/dongguan-grand-mosque - **Beichan Temple** (★★★): Admission Free; Opening hours 8：00—18：00; Time needed 1 hour — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/beichan-temple - **Qinghai Provincial Museum** (★★★): Admission Free; advance reservation required; Opening hours 09:00-17:00; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/qinghai-provincial-museum - **Xining Wildlife Park** (★★★): Admission ¥30; Panda House ¥25; Opening hours 09:00-17:30 (Oct 15-Apr 14 of the following year); 08:30-18:30 (Apr 15-Oct 14); Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/xining-wildlife-park ## Day trips & beyond - **Ta'er Monastery (Kumbum)** (★★★★★): Admission ¥70 (April–October); ¥40 (November–March of the following year). Entry to the Butter Sculpture Hall, Sutra Printing Hall, Murals Hall and Thangka Hall requires a ticket. Other smaller halls are free to enter.; Opening hours 7:30–17:30 (April–October) 8:00–16:30 (November–March of the following year); Time needed 3–5 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/ta-er-monastery-kumbum - **Qutan Monastery** (★★★★): Admission ¥50; Opening hours 9：00—17：00; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/qutan-monastery - **Zanpu Linka** (★★★★): Admission ¥40; Opening hours 9：00—17：00; Time needed 2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/zanpu-linka - **Qinghai Lake Scenic Area** (★★★★★): Admission Erlangjian Scenic Area: ¥90 (peak season), ¥50 (off-season); Xiannüwan Scenic Area: ¥60 (peak season), ¥30 (off-season); Opening hours 07:00-19:30 (Sep 1-Dec 31); Time needed 1–3 days — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/qinghai-lake-scenic-area - **Riyue Mountain** (★★★): Admission ¥50 (15 April–15 October); ¥30 (16 October–14 April of the following year); Opening hours 9：00—17：00; Time needed 1–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/riyue-mountain - **Chaka Salt Lake Scenic Area** (★★★★★): Admission ¥60 (May–October), ¥30 (November–April of the following year); single-trip small train ¥50, single-trip boat ¥90, observation tower ¥20; Opening hours 7：30—21：00; Time needed 2–4 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/chaka-salt-lake-scenic-area - **Da Qaidam Emerald Lake** (★★★★): Admission ¥50; small train ¥60 (round trip); Opening hours 08:00-20:30; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/da-qaidam-emerald-lake - **Kanbula Geopark** (★★★★): Admission Entrance ¥45; sightseeing bus ¥100; sightseeing boat ¥100 per person per trip; Opening hours 08:00-18:00 (Sep 1-Dec 31); Time needed 3–4 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/kanbula-geopark - **Dan'gar Ancient City Scenic Area** (★★★): Admission ¥50; Opening hours Open all day; Time needed 1–2 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/dan-gar-ancient-city-scenic-area - **Menyuan Rapeseed Flower Fields** (★★★): Admission Free entry; viewing platform ¥30 per person; Opening hours 07:00-20:00; Time needed 2–3 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/menyuan-rapeseed-flower-fields - **Zhuoer Mountain** (★★★★): Admission ¥80 (includes scenic shuttle bus); Opening hours 7：00—19：00; Time needed 3–5 hours — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/zhuoer-mountain - **Delingha City** (★★★): — https://cnatrip.com/en/places/delingha-city --- Source: China Self-Guided Travel 2025 (《中国自助游》, Tianjin Science & Technology Press, Aug 2024), pp. 689–714. Prices, hours and transport details are as printed in the August 2024 edition and may have changed. Always confirm with the venue before you travel.